Stories about being becalmed are legendary in literature of the sea. Wars have been lost because flotillas of warships were unable to advance.  

For modern-day sailors, a lack of wind is usually only frustrating. Schedules are ruined, the engine is used more than it should be, and morale sinks when sails flap. Recently, during a 37-mile passage on Chesapeake Bay, we were about halfway to our destination when the wind died—and then my electric motor came to a stop after 30 minutes. The only option was to keep sailing. The next six hours required patience, not only for me, but also for my two new-to-sailing crew, who feared the prospect of drifting at night.

Drawing on many years of racing in very light or nonexistent wind, I approached our situation methodically. The first step is to adjust your attitude and accept the fact that it is going to be slow-going. 

I set short-term milestones. For example, I asked one crew to set his stopwatch to see if we could reach a channel buoy in 30 minutes. Happily, we arrived at the targeted mark with two minutes to spare. Progress. I repeated the pattern by setting new goals, and everyone was happy as we made each target. 

In light wind, sails need to be adjusted by easing everything out to create more shape in the sail. I eased the outhaul a generous amount, let up the downhaul, and slacked the halyard a few inches. I adjusted the headsail halyard so that the luff had some slack. (It is OK to have wrinkles in the sails.) I also eased off the backstay to allow the headstay to sag about 6 inches. The idea is to create draft, or curvature, in the sails.  

To help keep the sails set properly, heel the boat over by asking the crew to sit on the leeward side. The sails keep their shape better when ­heeling to leeward. This ­strategy also helps to keep the crew sitting in the widest part of the boat. Pushing down either the bow or the stern slows the boat.  

A helpful test is to sail with an angle of heel that allows you to let go of the tiller or wheel. If the boat is balanced, it will sail itself. If the boat heels too far to leeward, then you will create windward helm where the boat wants to round up toward the wind. Conversely, if you heel to windward, the boat will create leeward helm and will bear away from the wind. If you hear water slatting under the transom, then your weight is likely too far aft. The goal is to keep crew weight centered to reduce the wetted surface of the hull, thereby reducing friction.

Steer as little as possible. Every time you move the rudder, you slow the boat. And sit in a comfortable position so that you can see the wind on the water and the approaching waves. I ask my crew to hold the boom in waves to keep the sail from flopping around. This helps maintain a boat’s momentum.  

If there are other boats in your vicinity, try to sail faster than they do. Experiment by changing course, adjusting your sails, or moving your crew to heel more. Make one adjustment at a time, to tell what works and what doesn’t. I find weight on the bow to be particularly slow. Small adjustments can make a big difference. 

When sailing to windward, sail a slightly low course to almost a close reach, to get the boat moving. Once you have some speed, you can sail a higher course. 

If you are sailing on a ­downwind course, reach up to create apparent wind in your sails. Once a boat starts moving, it creates its own (apparent) wind, and speed increases. 

To help build momentum and steer straight, head toward an object on land or an anchored vessel. References on land and a compass are useful tools. 

Stand up in your boat to study the wind patterns on the water. If you see a dark patch, this indicates more wind. You can feel the slightest zephyr on your neck or the back of your hand. Look around at other boats to see if any have some wind and are moving. Steer for a set of clouds—often, there is wind under a cloud. 

Avoid maneuvering when the boat is stopped. The best moment to tack or jibe is when the boat is sailing at full speed and you are in a relatively strong puff of wind. And turn the boat slowly. The faster you turn a boat, the slower it’ll go.  

Keep everyone comfortable, and try to protect the crew from the sun. Dehydration saps energy. Make sure everyone is drinking water, is wearing a hat and sunglasses, and has applied sunscreen. Periodically ask crew to switch jobs or positions. Ask each person to tell a story. I’m always amazed by the stories people share when they are on the water. One leads to the next, helping time to pass and spirits to improve.

During our sail to my dock in Annapolis, Maryland, we were able to make 16 miles in five hours. The final mile seemed to be the slowest. We tied up the boat just as the late-afternoon sun dipped the horizon.  

We all slept well that night. And I bought a new engine the following week.

The post When the Wind Goes Light appeared first on Cruising World.

The most notable upgrade that my husband, Chris, and I have done aboard our 41-foot, 1979 Cheoy Lee, Avocet, since we bought her in 2018 is replacing her toe rail with a bulwark. This project changed not only the aesthetic of our boat’s design, but also the physical construct, making her deck and hull stronger than ever. 

A conversion like this one includes many technical layers that combine naval design, carpentry, metalwork and a whole lot of patience. For starters, our research revealed that there is a lot of confusion about what defines a toe rail and a bulwark. After some internet deep dives, and discussions with boatwrights and naval architects, we concluded that a toe rail is a piece of wood, aluminum or fiberglass that usually does not exceed more than 3 inches tall and that is bolted, every few inches, through the deck. Anything bigger (which typically is bolted to the stanchions) is called a bulwark.

Sailor and author John Kretschmer notes that when choosing an offshore cruising boat, it’s best to consider a vessel with a “deck-to-hull joint that does not rely on bolts, screws, rivets, or adhesive for strength or watertightness.” He notes that the idea is to eliminate potential leaks. 

With all of this in mind, we explored how we could implement a strong bulwark and increase Avocet’s bluewater standard. Avocet’s teak toe rail was (at one point) structural, connecting the deck-to-hull joint with through bolts every 6 inches. Over time, the bolts corroded because of dissimilar metals, leaving numerous voids where water leaked through, creating a mess of problems belowdecks. To repair this damage, we had to remove the toe rail and then decide how to proceed with a replacement.

Choosing the bulwark option let us glass a seamless deck-to-hull joint that would reinforce the interior glass, as well as reconcile the damage, further eliminating the need to rebolt. Our deck-to-hull joint was not initially glassed externally because the process is labor-intensive and expensive. Avocet’s era of boats were primarily built economically, in Hong Kong and Taiwan, and the quicker approach is to construct a toe rail and bolt it. This solution is fine as long as the hardware is not corroding.

For three months, Chris and I spent hours glassing, designing, fabricating and constructing our bulwark, which incorporated many design aspects influenced by the Bristol Channel Cutter. The bulwark bases were 316 stainless L brackets that we recessed into the deck so that they would sit flush below the stanchions. Each bracket was a unique bend measurement to anticipate the curve of Avocet’s hull, allowing the wood to conform and naturally continue the angle of the hull above the deck.

Next, we began to work on the wood that would be mounted to the brackets. We wanted to use teak at first, but our wallets did not agree, so we researched rot-resistant hardwoods such as white oak, purpleheart, black acacia and mahogany. A contractor pointed us toward cumaru, also known as Brazilian teak. 

Chris spent days prior to the wood’s arrival studying various scarf joints to choose the best method to join the three sections of wood together into a single 42-foot board. He settled on a mechanically fastened plated scarf joint that would be 32 inches long. Chris used an accurate combo square, circular saw, Japanese handsaw, sharp chisels, assorted drill bits, 316 stainless hardware, and marine glue to construct the bulwark plank.

Sixty-four stainless-steel fasteners later, we had bulwarks. The wood added a hint of timeless design to Avocet, in a nod to our favorite classic yacht designers. 

The final pieces to be installed were the hawseholes to replace our fairleads, which we felt did not do the overall hull design justice. Our cast-bronze hawseholes completed the design.

When the project was complete, we broke free of our dock lines and made a mad dash to the Channel Islands so that we could enjoy our boat the way she was intended. Water splashed the deck, washing overboard immediately under the bulwark through the slim gap. It was perfect. The height of the bulwark made it easy to stow jerry cans, fenders, lines and even the dinghy without clutter.

This conversion was a long process, but we are pleased with the outcome. As Kretschmer writes: “No other man-made object blends design, craftsmanship, passion and pure optimism the way a sailboat does. With a good sailboat, anything is possible.”

For more details on our bulwark conversion, visit our website, svavocet.com, or check out our YouTube channel, Sailing Avocet.

The post How We Built Our Own Bulwarks appeared first on Cruising World.

Instead of cruising Alaska’s epic coastline, I once spent five interminable days in the port of Kodiak awaiting a replacement part for a failed windlass. As I sat there, unable to take advantage of the sunny days, I was reminded that many boaters fail to realize that electric windlasses have a maintenance schedule.

This schedule often includes partial disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and lubrication of the shafts and clutches. By far, most failures are the result of deferred maintenance and inspections. Familiarize yourself with the maintenance requirements for your make and model, and follow them.

For windlasses with oil-filled gearboxes, this includes checking the oil level, and checking the gearbox for oil leaks. If the oil is milky, then it’s contaminated with water, a problem that typically requires removal of the windlass and a rebuild, including the replacement of shaft seals. If your anchor rode creates a rainbow sheen on the water when it’s first deployed, then there’s a good chance your gearbox is leaking oil.

Beyond that, don’t assume that your windlass has been installed correctly just because it works, even if you purchased your vessel new. After you have reviewed the service requirements, look at the installation instructions, and then scrutinize your setup for deficiencies.  

Common installation errors involve mounting and fasteners. Most fiberglass vessels utilize a cored deck structure. Unless the builder anticipated the installation, wherever the core is penetrated, it must be removed and backfilled with thickened epoxy (this is called “core closeout”). Missing this step can lead to water ­penetrating the core and deteriorating the balsa or plywood. Even if the core is synthetic and rot-proof, it can be crushed where windlass fasteners pass through it, in turn weakening the deck structure.

These rules apply to the hole through which the chain passes, as well as to holes that are drilled for windlass mounting fasteners. The large chain hole must be properly closed out with solid fiberglass or thickened epoxy. In many cases, I encounter mere coats of polyester or epoxy resin, an approach that is woefully inadequate for any closeout, particularly when it must withstand abrasion from the anchor rode moving in and out of the chain locker. 

Most windlass manufacturers recommend using a backing plate to help distribute the load to the deck. This backing plate can be made from prefabricated fiberglass or epoxy sheet called GPO-3 or G10, stainless steel or aluminum, in that order of preference. Timber is less than ideal, and under no circumstances should it be a solid block, regardless of species, because it is prone to cracking. Backing plates should not be bedded; doing so can trap water in fastener holes, leading to crevice corrosion.  

Speaking of fasteners: Those used for windlass installations should be stainless-steel bolts, not threaded rod, with heads suitable for the windlass surface. This usually means hex-head cap screws. If the housing is painted aluminum, then ensure that the heads are bedded in sealant to prevent paint failure.  

It is imperative that the fasteners’ shank diameter matches that of the holes in the windlass frame. Undersize fasteners will allow a windlass to shift, and they lack the necessary tensile strength that the manufacturer anticipated.

Review the wiring—the high-current, big cables that supply the motor, and the low-current, small wires used for the controls. All ­positive post and ring terminal connections should be booted to prevent short circuits. Connections should be clean, tight and corrosion-free. If corrosion is present, then you must disassemble, clean and reassemble the connection, ideally using a conductive or dielectric grease. Also make certain that the holes in the ring terminals match the diameter of the studs or screws where they interface. Once the connections are complete, spray with corrosion inhibitor, and give the motor housing a coating as well.

Finally, if your windlass uses a stripper bar to separate the chain from the wildcat or chain wheel, ensure that it is not distorted and that it is centered in the wheel’s groove. —Steve D’Antonio

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post How to Keep Your Windlass Working For You appeared first on Cruising World.

I would hardly describe myself as all-knowing, but at age 93, with a lifetime of offshore sailing experience in my bag, I’ve seen a lot. These days, I can walk on a boat that is preparing to head south and immediately start making a list of improvements.

Here are some of the most important things I’ve learned about how to make your voyage south safer and easier.

No matter what route you take to the Caribbean, or what time of year, your chance is high of running into blows of at least 25 to 30 knots. To prepare, when you’re still in your own home waters, head out with a crew in a good blow and push the boat really hard on various points of sail. Reef the main, and reduce the area of the headsail. On double headsail boats, get rid of the jib, shorten down to staysail and double-reefed main, beat to windward, heave-to, reach and run downwind. Install and test the emergency tiller.

You will undoubtedly discover deficiencies in sails and gear. Fix them, wait for the next blow, and then repeat the process. Your fear and anxiety about being on the boat in heavy weather will eventually vanish.

Next, check your mainsail and mizzen reefing systems. In moderate conditions. reef and double reef a couple of times. If you have single line in the boom reefing, then have a good rigger un-reeve it, get rid of the twists, and then re-reeve it.

Single headsail boats heading south should contact a great rigger. Have him design and install a removable staysail stay. This stay should be parallel to the headstay, meeting the mast about where the head of the reefed main will be. Then, have a hanked-on staysail built. Stow it and its sheets in a tight, double-zippered turtle bag, and secure it alongside the mast.

When cruising the Caribbean, before leaving the lee of an island, set up the staysail stay, hoist the staysail, roll up the genoa or jib, and reef the main. You’ll have a comfortable passage.

You’ll also want an easily rigged, easily disconnected main boom anti-jibing preventer rig and reaching sheet. (My own failure to install one of these ended my own boat’s 114-year career.) Start by securing a becket block to the end of the boom. To the becket, secure a wire or Kevlar line about 6 inches shorter than the length of the main boom. Secure the end of the line to the gooseneck with a light lashing. Through the block, reeve a line that’s double the length of the main boom, plus about 15 feet. Secure this line to the gooseneck, and coil the excess line.

From the stem head or bowsprit end, rig two spinnaker pole foreguys with both ends secured to lifeline stanchions alongside the mast. Once the wind goes aft, and the boat is sailing on a broad reach or almost dead downwind, you can disconnect the line under the boom, attach it to one end of the spinnaker pole foreguy, run the other end back to a cockpit winch or cleat, and set the man boom foreguy preventer up tight. You now have a preventer running from the end of the main boom to the stem or bowsprit end, making it impossible to jibe.

When sailing broad off, attach one end of the reaching sheet to the genoa. Run the other end through a block that’s well forward of amidships, then back to a cockpit winch. Trim the genoa with the reaching sheet. This will open up the angle, allow the main boom to be eased, ease or eliminate weather helm and eliminate chafe. The boat will also be faster.

A double headsail rig is great because it can be properly shortened down in heavy weather, but one problem is that when broad reaching, the jib sheet chafes on the main boom. This problem can be easily eliminated. Go hard on the wind, use tape to mark the jib sheet about 4 feet forward of the rail cap lead block, and then roll up the jib and cut the jib sheet off at the mark. Join it with the section that has been cut off by using a double sheet bend. Mouse the ends of the knots with whipping twine or electrical tape. Then, when sheets are eased and chafe begins, attach the reaching sheet to the jib sheet forward of the knot. Rig the reaching sheet as described above, opening the angle and eliminating chafe.

When you are out there pushing the boat hard, double reef the main and reduce headsail area. On a double headsail boat, experiment by rolling up the jib completely, sheeting the staysail flat, and tacking but holding the staysail sheet. Experiment with main trim and helm angle. Hopefully, you will end up lying about 60 degrees off the wind, with little or no headway slipping to leeward, leaving a smooth slick to windward.

If the staysail is roller furling, then roll up one full roll so that even the worst gust will not blow the sail out of the foil. Ketches and yawls usually will heave-to with the staysail aback and mizzen trimmed flat, or sometimes under mizzen alone.

The modern fin-keeled single headsail sloop with no forefoot to prevent the bow from falling off is almost impossible to get to heave-to. Just try jogging along on a double- or triple-reefed main. Each boat is different, so you’ll have to experiment. After trying to heave-to in a real blow in a single-headsail boat, you will probably be persuaded to install a removable staysail stay with a hanked-on staysail.

Next, have a sailmaker check all your boat’s sails. In general, on any well-used sail, have him stitch 2/3-foot in on the leach on each seam for the main and headsails. If the main is old, then replace it with a Doyle fully battened stack pack main or the equivalent. This quality of sail will outlast its cover, in my experience, especially if you protect the sail from the sun.

Change the fuel filters on your engine and generator under sail while the boat is well heeled over. It’s a different job than when you do it in port. Practicing will mean that on your way south, if the filters need to be changed at sea, you will be able to do it.

Buy spare belts, and make sure you have the tools to adjust tension. Change belts to make sure you can do the job with little difficulty.

When it comes to bilge pumps, the vast majority of today’s boats have a pair of 10-gallon-per-minute pumps with short handles. These can be inadequate to move large quantities of water. A 30-gpm Edson diaphragm pump with a 42-inch handle will move large quantities of water and can be pumped for long periods without wearing out the pumper.

Loss of steering or loss of rudder should not be regarded as a complete disaster, but rather a major inconvenience. On boats with a twin wheel installation, install an emergency tiller 6 feet long, hinged so the forward end is at a convenient height. If a cockpit table obstructs the end of the tiller, then the table base should be altered so that the table can be easily removed.

While sailing up and down the islands of the eastern Caribbean, spinnaker poles are rarely used, but if your trip south is at the beginning of a cruise to the Pacific (where you will be doing a lot of downwind trade wind sailing) then it is worthwhile to re-rig your spinnaker pole stowage. Stow the pole or poles vertically against the mast, with the inner end on a slider that goes up the mast. It makes rigging and unrigging the pole fantastically easy.

There is nothing that gets crews seasick faster in heavy weather than a stuffy cabin. Install proper ventilators. Double opening hatches—which can be opened facing aft under a dodger at sea, or reversed in port to gather air—are a great bonus. In port, good wind scoops will make life more comfortable belowdecks in even the hottest weather.

When heading south, you are not racing. If the wind goes light, you can motor-sail. If you keep engine revs down to 1,200 or less, your range will be considerable. If it starts to blow hard, then slow down to be comfortable.

Have a minimum of four crew with offshore experience. All too often, the crew is a couple heading south for semi-retirement with friends who may be good sailors, but who are not experienced offshore sailors. They run into heavy weather and things start falling apart, sometimes disastrously. If you fit that description, then hire a good delivery skipper to sail with you. In some cases, a boat’s previous owner can serve this purpose. After 52 years of owning the 46-foot yawl Iolaire, I sold her and served as the new owner’s sailing master/coach on a 500-mile passage.  

A good crew is also necessary because fatigue is the rust that destroys boats. With five crew on board, you can stand watches four hours on and six off. It is essential that there are at least two bunks set up so the off-watch crew can comfortably sleep, no matter the angle of heel. Test the bunks along with everything else in heavy weather.

Crew also need to be well-fed. I have always insisted on a solid breakfast, soup and sandwiches at lunchtime, and a solid dinner. There is rarely a reason to miss a meal, especially if, before you head offshore, you make up a pasta sauce, beef stew and a chicken for roasting. That will give you three meals semi-prepared for cooking in heavy weather. A pre-cooked ham is also wonderful for snacks.

Seasickness can take trial and error to resolve, but anybody who is prone to it should start taking their preferred remedy 24 hours before the trip starts. Those who are seldom seasick should start taking their remedy before heavy weather is predicted to arrive.

All boats heading offshore should stow the ultimate seasickness cure: suppositories of promethegan. Pills are useless, as they just keep coming up, but the suppository gets into the system and produces an amazingly fast recovery. I have had completely disabled crewmembers fully recover in four hours with the suppositories.

Keep this article handy when planning your passage south. If you follow the advice, you’ll boost your odds of enjoying a successful voyage south—even if you run into heavy weather.

The post Southern Comfort: Tactical Tips for Sailing South appeared first on Cruising World.

Organizing a plan for a good day of sailing or a longer cruise is an important first step in ­optimizing the experience. 

I start by penciling several dates on my calendar and then watching the weather forecast as the dates come closer. Perfect weather might not arrive as frequently as desired, but a little rain, light wind or even a good blow is never a reason to avoid heading out for a sail. Make sure the entire crew has the proper clothing on hand for the anticipated weather.  

The next item is to declare, in advance, how long you plan to spend on the water. If the crew expects a three-hour sail, don’t change the plan and stay out for six hours. Think through a plan of the day before you leave the dock.  

Crews are happiest when you sail with the correct number of people on board. For example, a 40-footer might need six people to handle the boat efficiently. If there are 15 people on board, the boat is overcrowded, and most sailors will be unable to participate in any crew work. People like to participate. When everyone has a designated job, the crew will be happier.

Study a chart before leaving your berth. I set a place to head for, depending on the direction and strength of the wind. On the Chesapeake Bay where I live, there are endless destinations. A typical day might be to sail around a few lighthouses, anchor off a beach for lunch, or explore a remote creek. Show the proposed course on the chart to the full crew so that they understand where you are sailing. Note any danger spots such as ­shallow water or a riptide. People don’t like surprises.  

What sailors do like is adventure. They enjoy seeing things from the water, where the view is always different than from land. It seems as if the environment changes as the day passes. The wind shifts, currents change the color of the water, new sights appear, and there are other boats to salute. How often do people wave to each other while driving an automobile? On the water, there is always a friendly wave. Clearly, people are happy.

Run through a checklist of safety items before sailing. Your gear should be properly stowed, and the sails should be ready to hoist. Make sure the crew have applied sunscreen, have their foul-weather gear on the boat, and are wearing a hat and sunglasses. It is better for someone to run back to the car to get their gear than to spend a day on the water missing important items. Also, make sure there are life jackets for everyone. Pointing out the location of safety gear is essential.

I find that sailors alternate between being chatty and being reflective. It is easy to become ­mesmerized by the water and the wind.

Once everyone is on board, before heading out, conduct a crew meeting so that everyone understands the day’s plan. Ask if anyone has a special request. Crews appreciate the opportunity to provide input. (Your mission plan can be modified later if the weather changes.) The crew meeting is also the time to assign specific duties. Let people know that there will be a rotation on the helm, so everyone will have a chance to steer. 

Once the boat is ­underway and the sails are set, run through a few practice maneuvers so that the crew are comfortable with their duties. Be disciplined regarding crew rotations. It is easy to forget to give everyone a chance to steer, trim or have some quiet time. I’ve been on boats where someone seems to yell more and more about less and less. The top sailors are quiet and measured, with their comments coming during tense moments in a strong gust of wind, or a close encounter with another boat. A calm leader instills confidence in a crew.

I find that sailors alternate between being chatty and being reflective. It is easy to become mesmerized by the water and the wind. Sailors tend to be as one with the motion of the boat.

At the same time, the best conversations take place on the water. People tend to be open and enthusiastic. If one crewmember seems quiet, take a moment to ask a question. This will get the person engaged. And remember: What is said on the boat stays on the boat. This is a good policy.

After sailing, I write down the experience details in a logbook. It’s fun to review your days on the water, and my logbooks give me good ideas for what else I can do on the water. Also, encourage photography throughout the sail. It’s fun to pass around pictures later.

Before disbanding, conclude the day with a second crew meeting to review the day’s sail. If you are a crewmember, always offer to lend a hand for cleanup. As the saying goes: Many hands make light work.  

You never know exactly what is going to happen during a daysail or a multiple-day cruise, but the goal should be to make sure everyone on the boat has fun and wants to come back for more.

The post Preparing to Head Out appeared first on Cruising World.

About a year ago, a good friend mentioned that his smartphone and tablet had become his sole means of onboard digital charting. His comment concerned me. While trying to figure out how to install a basic digital navigation network on my own boat, I had been doing a head-to-head comparison: an iPad loaded with iNavX versus a B&G Vulcan multifunction display.  

At the chart table, they both excelled, but in real-world sailing conditions, the multifunction display had several important advantages.

In calm seas and under the dodger, the iPad looked pretty good, but in direct sunlight, there was a distinct deterioration in contrast. What fully tipped the scale in the MFD’s favor was a seamanship issue that became quite clear as conditions deteriorated: The general rule of “one hand for yourself and one for the ship” left me one hand short while holding the iPad in a rough seaway. I tried a series of clamping devices, but none was as effective as a ­permanently mounted MFD.

I initially coupled the B&G Vulcan to a long NMEA 2000 drop cable. This allowed me to temporarily mount the unit in several locations: at the helm just above the binnacle, midcockpit just forward of the mainsheet, and on the coachroof just under the dodger. Determining the permanent roost was a matter of preference. For me, the right solution was a flush mount on a raised bridge deck just forward of the helm and mainsheet, where I could reach the wheel and the touchscreen controls. (Sailors who prefer to mount the unit on the SS tube guard over the binnacle can check sources such as Edson and NavPod for quality mounting brackets, hardware and housings.)

The most important thing I learned is that the key aspect of installing a basic digital navigation network is the word “basic.” Think of the project as phase one of interfacing cables and components to get the most important features of a digital charting system. 

To complete phase one, you need to learn how to set up an NMEA 2000 backbone, and then use it to connect components to an MFD. It also makes sense to add a stand-alone depth display, because that number, more than any other, can determine a sailor’s fate. 

MFDs have a lot of similarities, but their software does differ. The best way to make an informed choice about which MFD to purchase is to visit vendors at a boat show. Ask for demonstrations. Try your hand at calling up menus, plotting a waypoint, zooming and panning. You’ll likely learn that bigger screens are better, and that if you’re thinking about a 7- or 9-inch MFD, placement on board will be extra important. 

Also take a look at how the NMEA 2000 cables connect to the unit. A sailboat’s cockpit is often more of an aquarium than a patio. High marks go to manufacturers that take extra steps to keep water out of cable connections, and to owners who opt for quality NMEA cables and fittings, such as those made by Ancor.  

It can also make sense to purchase a remote antenna, even if the unit has a built-in GPS antenna. The remote antenna improves reception. 

There’s also a need for a depth-sounder transducer. Add the necessary NMEA 2000 cables, along with the fittings to connect to the network. Carefully reread the manufacturer’s installation guidelines before doing this work.    

NMEA 2000 cabling expedites installations. One of the big plusses is expandability. T-connectors are used to attach “drop cables” that run from electronic equipment to the network backbone cable. Think of this wiring backbone as the mainstream source of 12-volt DC current, along with much of the digital information traveling to and from connected components and transducers. Take note of the cable that connects the backbone to ship’s power. That cable needs to be fused or provided with a circuit breaker. 

The best way to begin a DIY installation is by sketching the path of the NMEA backbone and the junction points where components will connect along the way. Some boatbuilders provide handy wiring ­pass-throughs for a clear run. 

Lacking those, get an angle drill and a set of hole saws. A good rule is to keep the backbone cable as far away from the bilge as possible.

Refine your sketch before you shop for cables and connectors. One option is to use a tape measure or some light line to mimic the backbone’s route. You can determine the length of each drop cable and note where each T-connector will be placed. Extra cable length can be coiled and tucked away, but a cable that’s too short won’t work. 

And remember that the longer the run, the greater the electrical line loss. Select cabling that best fits the dimensions of your NMEA backbone, and heed the ­manufacturer’s advice on maximum-length cable runs.

Once you have installed the basic components and the system is fully functional, you can read up on a phase-two expansion. For example, a radar installation adds the complexity of mounting a dome and installing an Ethernet cable to support the higher data rate. An autopilot installation adds the need for high-amperage current, necessitating a separate 12-volt DC power cable. Adding a digital compass is easy, but the mechanical demands of installing the drive motor and linkage might not be.

For phase one, keep things simple. It will lower the slope of the NMEA learning curve and make phase two much more manageable.

Pro Tip

When it comes to interfacing a diverse gaggle of new gadgets while upgrading your electronics, consider your electronic gear as a navigation system rather than individual ­components. Before focusing on specific brands, create a realistic two-column list of gear under the headings “Must Have” and “Might Want.” Once that’s completed, steer clear of brand-hopping, thus minimizing the need to lash one manufacturer’s equipment to another’s network. Carefully consider the value, cost savings and reliability that come from brand allegiance. Focus on the essentials, and go with the gear line that hits the most points in the Must Have column.

Selecting an MFD

Settling on the right ­multifunction display should be more than a price-point decision. If your plan is to expand the network over time and add AIS, radar, wind instruments, weather data and more, then look at the manufacturer’s entire lineup of products. In most cases, it’s best to stick with one brand for compatibility; when components from differing brands are merged, certain functions become unavailable. 

The “big four” brands among sailors are B&G, Furuno, Garmin and Raymarine. They all offer 7- and 9-inch MFDs, as well as larger screens. Each MFD is highly expandable using NMEA 2000 backbones. 

B&G’s Vulcan 9 and the 9-inch Zeus 3S are excellent candidates for cockpit installation aboard smaller sailboats. Furuno’s ­GP-1971F has C-Map built in, as well as Navionics cartography. Garmin’s GPSMap 943xsv also comes with built-in Navionics charts. Raymarine’s Axiom+ 9 with built-in Lighthouse also supports C-Map and Navionics charts.

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With National Safe Boating Week coming up May 18-24, the nonprofit BoatUS Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water has listed the following seven practical tips to keep you cruising safely all summer long. These suggestions come from more than 40 years of helping to ensure that every day on the water is a great one, without an injury or fatality. 

1. Follow the dates. Some required safety equipment, such as flares, have an expiration date. Fire extinguishers must be replaced 12 years after their date of manufacture, so you will have to do some math. And if you have automatic life jackets aboard, the dissolvable bobbin inside the inflation mechanism also has an expiration date stamped on the outside. Practically speaking, these dates help ensure the equipment will work when you need it. But don’t stop there. While inflatable life jacket inflation cylinders don’t expire, a thorough annual inspection of the cylinder and life jacket, including an overnight inflation test, is something you should have on your calendar every season.
2. Get comfy. 83% of people who drowned in recreational boating accidents in 2022 were not wearing life jackets. To wear your life jacket more often, you need a life jacket you don’t mind wearing. There are many styles of life jackets today, such as inflatables, hybrids and special use vest types (eg., fishing, paddling) that are comfortable even on hot days and allow all the movement you need. Wearing yours also influences guests to wear theirs. Regardless, ensure a life jacket is always within reach of everyone aboard. Youngsters should never wear an adult jacket, and if you find yourself short on a correctly sized jacket, go to one of the BoatUS Foundation Kids Life Jacket loaner program locations to borrow one for free.
3. Brush up on basics. It’s been a long winter without boating on your mind. Refresh your boating safety by taking BoatUS Foundation free online course, on-water powerboat training course or brushing up on the rules of the road with the BoatUS Foundation study guide.
4. Start each outing right. Before a day on the water, take a few minutes before you depart to share a safety briefing with your guests. If an emergency arises, you’ll have a team aboard to address it quickly. If you’re wondering what to share, download a customizable predeparture safety briefing checklist.
5. Don’t go alone. Let a trusted family member or friend know where you’re going, when you expect to return, and what to do if you fail to check in. Having someone ashore who knows your whereabouts and trip plans can potentially shorten a response time.
6. One hand for yourself. Always be prepared for sudden, unexpected vessel movement by having a firm footing and one hand connected to the boat. With alcohol a leading factor in boating fatalities, it’s best the other hand isn’t holding a wine, beer or other alcoholic drink – save it for ashore.
7. Don’t rush the startup. For boats with enclosed engine compartments, it is always important to run the blower for a minimum of four minutes before starting the engine and after each refueling. This is especially important after a visit to the gas dock.

The post 7 Boating Safety Tips for Summer Cruising appeared first on Cruising World.

The only thing worse than overused machinery is underused machinery, and a sailing vessel’s auxiliary engine is likely, perhaps hopefully, already underused under normal circumstances. One of the most familiar refrains I hear from boat owners, after a failure is, “It was working fine.” Indeed, most equipment won’t telegraph a warning in advance of its failure.  

It’s not uncommon for engines to develop issues after the offseason layup, shortly after being placed back in service. Fortunately, many of these can be avoided with regular inspections and preventive maintenance.

Raw-water pump impellers are among the most common post-layup failure items, and this is very easily prevented by religious annual replacement at spring commissioning. Impellers are relatively inexpensive, the peace of mind afforded by their annual ­replacement, regardless of hours accumulated, is well worth the price. When replacing your impeller, be sure to closely inspect the cover plate for signs of wear. Visible discoloration usually isn’t an issue, however, any surface defects that can be felt mean the plate needs to be replaced (or turned over provided no embossed or debossed writing is present). Also, inspect the cam; if it is worn, then the pump capacity will be reduced. Some are replaceable, others aren’t. If the latter, the pump would need to be replaced.

Belts are the next most common post-commissioning failure, and they too are relatively inexpensive. If your goal is maximum reliability, go ahead and replace them every two to three years—again, regardless of use. They do age and deteriorate even while sitting idle. When carrying out the replacement, look for signs of uneven wear, which is indicative of misalignment. Many V belts I encounter are overtensioned, which leads to premature circulator-pump and alternator-bearing failures. Even many professionals don’t get this right. If you are in doubt, use a Gates Krikit belt-tension tool.

Next, look closely at the entire exhaust system. This includes the gasket under the mixing elbow, the mixing elbow itself (corrosion is its nemesis, even if it’s stainless steel), hoses (any cracking is too much), the muffler (the drain screw often corrodes), hangers or supports, and the transom outlet. Be certain to look carefully at the latter, with a flashlight, if necessary, both inside and outside, because these can corrode and perforate or crack. If it’s stainless steel and you see any brown “tea” staining, it’s a clear indication the alloy has gone from passive to active; i.e., it’s corroding.

One of the most familiar refrains I hear from boat owners is, “It was working fine.” Indeed, most equipment won’t ­telegraph a warning.

Carefully review your engine’s electrical system. Look for loose or unsupported wires. Small auxiliary engines are prone to vibration, and any wires (or hoses, for that matter) that are not well-secured will chafe. This, in turn, can lead to a short circuit. In the best-case scenario, a fuse will blow and something, including the engine itself, will stop working. In a worst-case scenario, no fuse is present, and the short will lead to an overheated wire and potentially a fire.   

Of all the positive DC wires aboard your vessel, only one is not required to have overcurrent protection (it is not prohibited from being protected; it’s simply not required for ABYC compliance), a fuse or a circuit breaker: the DC wire that supplies current to the starter. Therefore, the integrity of this wire is more critical than any other aboard. It must not make contact with any part of the engine. It should leave the starter—the post should be booted for insulation against short circuits—and the next securing point should be the vessel itself, typically a stringer.

For maximum reliability, replace your belts every two to three years, regardless of use. They do age and deteriorate even while sitting idle.

Finally, look closely over the fuel system for deterioration or damage, particularly any hose that enters the primary filter from the tank or manifold, and those that leave the filter and travel to the engine (once again, chafe is the key culprit). Then, pay attention to metal pipes that carry fuel from the lift pump to the injection pump, and from the injection pump to the injectors. Finally, inspect the return lines.

Metal pipes can rust. If they are missing their keepers, they can chafe against each other. This can be especially dangerous on a high-pressure line because a leak will spray high-pressure atomized diesel into the engine space. 

You simply can’t spend too much time looking over these critical systems before leaving the dock or mooring for the first time.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

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In many ways, anchoring is more about technique than gear. I was reminded of this fact at the end of a two-week delivery from Antigua to Martinique in the Eastern Caribbean. As we rounded the final headland on Martinique and turned east, Diamond Rock was just off the starboard bow. A few miles ahead was a line of white sailboats so thick that we couldn’t see the beach. 

“That’s Sainte-Anne,” I told my family, who had joined me as crew for this Christmas delivery. “That’s the end of the line for this voyage.”

This small, charming beach village is home to one of the nicest open roadsteads in the islands. More than 200 boats were anchored here. I know because I counted them. 

The bottom rose gradually to 30, then 15 feet, as we nosed in amid the moored fleet. We were surrounded. My daughter, Ren, was a senior at Maine Maritime Academy at the time, and she was at the helm, watching the depth finder as acting captain on our 54-foot charter boat. I was downgraded to deckhand and relegated to anchor duty at the bow.

I watched the bottom, which was a checkerboard of dark and light areas, some sand and some hard, bare coral. I picked out a patch of sand, motioned for Ren to stop, and lowered the hefty CQR anchor.

She backed down, and the chains rattled out. When the 10-fathom mark on the chain slipped over the bow roller, I give Ren the signal and snubbed the chain. 

“What’s the depth?” I hollered. It looked like 20 feet.

“Eighteen,” she replied.

Perfect.

I watched the chain raise up and straighten, and then drop. I leaned over the bow pulpit and, with my foot on the chain, felt the chain vibrate, dragging along the bottom. It straightened out again. I felt the anchor dig in, then break free, bouncing over the hard bottom.

We tried another spot. Then another. On the third attempt, I again felt the chain vibrate as it straightened out on the bottom. The anchor dragged, and the chain rose up in a straight line. The boat stopped.

“The anchor is set,” I hollered. “Give the boat another nudge in reverse, just to make sure.”

I let out another 10 fathoms, rigged the snubber, and walked aft to confer with the skipper.

“Do you trust this spot?” I asked Ren. She looked puzzled.

“I don’t,” I said.

“Then what do we do?” she asked.

“You are the captain,” I said.

“We dive on the anchor?” she replied, as more of a question than a statement.

Both of us swam out along the chain in masks, snorkels and fins. We followed the chain as it swept to the seabed, then paid along the bottom. When we saw the anchor, we dove down to find the plowshares of the CQR buried in sand. All that was visible was the shank and the chain. A 10-foot furrow in the bottom showed where the anchor had dragged before righting itself and digging in.

Once we were back on board, I asked her, “Now, how do you feel?”

“I think we’ll stay put,” she replied. I agreed. There was nearly 60 feet of chain on the bottom, then another 60 feet rising up in a gentle catenary to the surface.

Our visual inspection was one of the best anchoring techniques I know. Placing a foot on the chain can also tell you a lot about what’s happening on the bottom at the other end of the chain. Not so much on the nylon rode, but the foot can still feel the anchor bounce, drag and set—or not.

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Panchita was a callejera, a street cat who adopted us. She was one of thirtysomething animals we fostered while in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico, during the extended refit of Totem, our Stevens 47. The rescue agency where our daughter Siobhan volunteered had offered to transport Panchita north of the border for adoption, but when the time came to let her go, we couldn’t do it. She was irrevocably one of us.

Now, we are learning what it means to go cruising with a pet. Here’s the best and the worst of what we’ve figured out so far.

Transitioning Aboard

To help Panchita transition from street life to boat life, we made nests for her around the boat that incorporated familiar smells and favorite things. There may have been a few extra treats doled out. We brought her favorite dried anchovies, familiar litter box, and a fleece throw dubbed “the magical blanket” because of the calming effect it has on her.

The first few days, she stayed mostly hidden, coming out to eat and use the litter box. Panchita gradually explored every corner of the boat in high-alert mode, tail down, creeping from cabin to cabin. During the next week, she gained confidence, and her tail returned to the happy-cat question mark position.

Getting Underway

We were advised in a Facebook group to harness-train her, so we could keep her secure as needed. There’s a mixed set of reviews about whether PFDs are effective for cats. Plan A was to keep her belowdecks, or in close reach in the cockpit, while underway.

Harness training is amusing at first: A cat buckled in for the first time may flop down and forget how to walk, or just look at you with a deeply offended expression. Panchita adjusted eventually. Dried anchovy bribes helped.

Eleven days after moving aboard, we set sail for a weeklong passage to Banderas Bay. She hated the engine, and she vanished into one of her growing list of hidey-holes when it was turned on. Under sail, she slowly became more comfortable moving around belowdecks and making occasional supervised visits to the cockpit.

Her favorite places were often near us, or in one of the nests we’d made for her. An unexpected, chosen refuge was the laundry hamper. Never, in nearly two years at our apartment, did she seek it out. At sea, it must have felt nice and secure, and it had the right smells.

The Poop

Who wants to deal with provisioning for kitty litter around the world? Not us. Some cruisers do, while others use beach sand (sounds like a great way to invite bugs on board). Still others work with what they find along the way. And then, there are cruisers who teach their cats to use the toilet.

On land, Panchita would cry to be let outside to do her business. She got used to litter, so we used that aboard too. We started toilet training with a kit that we found online after arriving in Banderas Bay, and it’s going pretty well so far.

Meanwhile, we also purchased Purina’s Breeze “litter system,” which a lot of cruisers like because you don’t need to stash as much litter. The pellets last longer, and it’s possible to wash and reuse them. They also won’t track sand into your bunk.

Keeping a Cat Safe at Sea

We did not install nets, but many cat owners do. Another calico, Poppet, is circumnavigating on the Valiant 40 Sonrisa with her humans. Here, she demonstrates the attitude of many cats regarding lifeline netting.

Will we install nets? I think we’ll wait and see how curious our ship’s cat is. For now, we feel comfortable with the combination of her general caution and disinterest in being on deck underway, using a harness to secure her if needed, and remaining vigilant about her location when we are sailing. 

Keeping a Cat Safe at the Dock or Anchor

Marinas aren’t a safe place for a curious cat. She might get into a place she can’t get out from, whether that’s trapped in the dock’s structure or inside an unfamiliar boat. Or, she might wander away and get lost. We’ve heard so many heartbreaking stories.

Aside from the danger to the cat, it’s a real no-no to get on another person’s boat (unless there’s explicit permission). The cat could do damage. Panchita has already found the nonskid on my standup paddleboard a nice place to scratch, and the nuisance damage from claws digging into, say, fake teak decking can get expensive to fix.

What if the cat lands in the water? It’s our biggest fear. Some liveaboards hang apparatus off the side of the boat while anchored or moored for the cat to self-rescue by climbing up. It could be a fishing net or a yoga mat, or any of a number of things.

In our first weeks with Panchita on board, that fear was realized. Late one night, she got out through a hatch we didn’t think was accessible to her. We only found out she’d gone wandering when she came into our cabin, soaked and meowing mad, around 3 o’clock one morning. Her bloodied claws suggest that she was lucky to get out of the water, probably by way of climbing barnacle-crusted pilings. High on our agenda is working out something to hang off the transom for her to climb, and to do some in-water training at anchor.

Previously, Panchita loved to be outside, and had free access to go in and out during the daytime at our apartment. Being mostly confined to a boat is a massive transition, but an essential one.

The Benefit of a Tracker

I can’t imagine not having a tracker. They come in two basic types (radio-frequency and cellphone based) with different advantages. We have both and will employ whichever is best suited to the current situation.

Tabcat was our first tracker. It uses radio frequencies. We decided this was a great fit with our intention to be in remote, disconnected islands. It’s a lightweight tag on Panchita’s collar that lets us home in on her location from 500 feet away. We can remotely prompt the tag to beep, and she has become conditioned (anchovies, again) to return to our apartment when it sounds. A Tabcat kit includes two tags, each with a battery life of up to one year.

After Panchita’s nighttime escape and unplanned swim, we also decided to try a GPS-type tracker. Tractive’s historical tracking feature was eye-opening: We could immediately see that she was getting off the boat when we didn’t realize it, and probably getting onto multiple other boats on the dock. We have since buttoned up her escape routes so we can sleep at night, and we set a perimeter alert so we are pinged if she goes beyond our safe, close range. It’s also comforting to know that if she does wander farther, the GPS/cellular network method will help us find her.

The tag is bigger than Tabcat’s, but our petite, 2-pound Panchita doesn’t seem to mind. The tag is also waterproof. It’s possible to remotely prompt it to make a sound or flash a light. It does need regular charging, about every other day, and for those hours it can’t be on. For that reason, some cruisers with Tractive tags purchase two.

This link Tractive gives you a 30 percent discount; the bigger cost will be the subscription, however.

Arriving in New Countries

It’s more complicated to arrive in a new country as a pet than to arrive as a human. Even if the pet won’t leave the boat (like the dwarf hamsters we carried to 28 countries), the pet should be declared, which usually means paperwork.

Pets should be microchipped and have current vaccinations. You may need a vet’s certificate of health from the country where you departed; you may be able to get one on arrival. Countries may require a titer test (proof of sufficient rabies antibodies) taken within the past few years. Others won’t allow your pet regardless of titer tests if they’ve been in countries with certain levels of rabies risk within a defined period of time. Every country’s pet-entry requirements are different and need researching.

Excellent veterinary care is available in Mexico, but we naturalized Panchita as a US kitty with a couple of road trips to a veterinarian in Tucson, Arizona. To avoid the 120-day quarantine that was formerly the norm, handwritten records in Spanish weren’t going to be enough. Plus, the titer test required spinning serum from a blood sample and then overnighting it to the University of Kansas (with results sent directly to Hawaii).  Don’t tell my husband, Jamie, but those trips added up to around $1,000.

Health Needs

Cruisers invest a lot of preparation to care for the medical needs of the crew: giving CPR, and sourcing prescriptions or other medications that could be needed.

To do the proper sourcing for a pet, we attended a presentation by a cruising veterinarian, Dr. Sheddy, who addressed medicines to carry and how to handle wound care, near-drownings, poisoning and more. It was eye-opening. She’s seven years into her mission to provide free veterinary care to animals in need from aboard her sailboat, Chuffed. She shares practical, real-world advice for remote cruising with a pet on board, including medications for your pet’s first aid kit.  

We’d Do It Again, But…

Most pets will increase complication, add costs, and affect the boat’s routing options. And, cruising might not be your pet’s idea of living their best life. You may already have a pet who is part of your family, and who will make the sacrifice willingly. But if you don’t have a pet yet, think hard before adding one if you plan to go cruising.For a more dog-centered point of view, see this recent article in Spinsheet magazine by our friend Cindy Wallach. She’s cruising the Caribbean with rescue pups Choo Choo and Pip, and has great insights.

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