Instead of cruising Alaska’s epic coastline, I once spent five interminable days in the port of Kodiak awaiting a replacement part for a failed windlass. As I sat there, unable to take advantage of the sunny days, I was reminded that many boaters fail to realize that electric windlasses have a maintenance schedule.

This schedule often includes partial disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and lubrication of the shafts and clutches. By far, most failures are the result of deferred maintenance and inspections. Familiarize yourself with the maintenance requirements for your make and model, and follow them.

For windlasses with oil-filled gearboxes, this includes checking the oil level, and checking the gearbox for oil leaks. If the oil is milky, then it’s contaminated with water, a problem that typically requires removal of the windlass and a rebuild, including the replacement of shaft seals. If your anchor rode creates a rainbow sheen on the water when it’s first deployed, then there’s a good chance your gearbox is leaking oil.

Beyond that, don’t assume that your windlass has been installed correctly just because it works, even if you purchased your vessel new. After you have reviewed the service requirements, look at the installation instructions, and then scrutinize your setup for deficiencies.  

Common installation errors involve mounting and fasteners. Most fiberglass vessels utilize a cored deck structure. Unless the builder anticipated the installation, wherever the core is penetrated, it must be removed and backfilled with thickened epoxy (this is called “core closeout”). Missing this step can lead to water ­penetrating the core and deteriorating the balsa or plywood. Even if the core is synthetic and rot-proof, it can be crushed where windlass fasteners pass through it, in turn weakening the deck structure.

These rules apply to the hole through which the chain passes, as well as to holes that are drilled for windlass mounting fasteners. The large chain hole must be properly closed out with solid fiberglass or thickened epoxy. In many cases, I encounter mere coats of polyester or epoxy resin, an approach that is woefully inadequate for any closeout, particularly when it must withstand abrasion from the anchor rode moving in and out of the chain locker. 

Most windlass manufacturers recommend using a backing plate to help distribute the load to the deck. This backing plate can be made from prefabricated fiberglass or epoxy sheet called GPO-3 or G10, stainless steel or aluminum, in that order of preference. Timber is less than ideal, and under no circumstances should it be a solid block, regardless of species, because it is prone to cracking. Backing plates should not be bedded; doing so can trap water in fastener holes, leading to crevice corrosion.  

Speaking of fasteners: Those used for windlass installations should be stainless-steel bolts, not threaded rod, with heads suitable for the windlass surface. This usually means hex-head cap screws. If the housing is painted aluminum, then ensure that the heads are bedded in sealant to prevent paint failure.  

It is imperative that the fasteners’ shank diameter matches that of the holes in the windlass frame. Undersize fasteners will allow a windlass to shift, and they lack the necessary tensile strength that the manufacturer anticipated.

Review the wiring—the high-current, big cables that supply the motor, and the low-current, small wires used for the controls. All ­positive post and ring terminal connections should be booted to prevent short circuits. Connections should be clean, tight and corrosion-free. If corrosion is present, then you must disassemble, clean and reassemble the connection, ideally using a conductive or dielectric grease. Also make certain that the holes in the ring terminals match the diameter of the studs or screws where they interface. Once the connections are complete, spray with corrosion inhibitor, and give the motor housing a coating as well.

Finally, if your windlass uses a stripper bar to separate the chain from the wildcat or chain wheel, ensure that it is not distorted and that it is centered in the wheel’s groove. —Steve D’Antonio

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.

The post How to Keep Your Windlass Working For You appeared first on Cruising World.

I still remember (­robustly) arguing with my dad when he announced his plans to add a windlass to the J/44 he owned. He was thinking of easy anchoring. I was thinking of weight and the boat’s ability to hit its polars. I lost that fight, and I’ll admit to having some smoldering feelings—until we went cruising and I was charged with anchor retrieval. I reached down to start sweating in the ­7-to-1 scope and the big Danforth anchor, until I saw the windlass foot switch. I ­remember pulling in the rode until it came vertical, waiting for my dad to break the anchor’s grip by nudging the boat forward with the engine, and then nonchalantly employing the switch, hoping he wouldn’t ­notice. No dice. 

Bottom line: As a racing sailor, I wasn’t going to admit that the windlass was an ­upgrade, but there’s no question that it allowed my parents to ­enjoy years of additional cruising, while also saving me from back pain more than once. 

The premise behind a ­windlass is simple: It ­employs power and mechanical ­advantage to make it easier to ­retrieve a vessel’s ground tackle and feed its rode into the anchor well. To do so, over time, windlass design evolved into two camps: horizontal and vertical, allowing boat owners or, more likely with new boats, the builders, to ­select equipment that best fits their particular yacht. 

While high-quality ­windlasses are effective and dependable, a cost-cutting trend emerged in the 1970s and 1990s whereby boatbuilders offered windlasses as optional—not standard—equipment. As a result, many cruising boats were delivered sans windlasses. Flash-­forward to the 2020s, and many of these boats are now ­changing hands. Their new owners, however, are less interested in footing chiropractic bills. Here’s a look at how a windlass works, the design and installation considerations involved, and the benefits it provides.

The Big Picture

A windlass functions as part of a larger system that includes the anchor, sometimes a swivel and chain, sometimes rope, some sort of a snubber or chain stopper, the anchor roller, the windlass itself, the anchor well, the windlass controls, and the windlass’s power supply. All of these ­individual pieces of equipment need to be correctly spec’d for the ­system to work properly. 

“Start with what size anchor you’re going to use,” Harcourt Schutz advises. He is Lewmar’s senior director of aftermarket sales. He explains that the total weight of the boat’s ground tackle (not just the ­tackle that you expect to deploy) should represent one-quarter of the windlass’s working load. “It’s based on the anchor and rode, not the boat’s displacement. The anchor and rode are what you’re picking up. If you ­already have the rope and chain, match what’s there.” 

If you’re starting from scratch, Fred Cook, ­president of Schaefer Marine, ­advises that not all chain is ­created equal. “I wish everybody would use high-test chain,” he says, adding that while this is more expensive than a ­standard galvanized marine alloy, it delivers considerably greater strength. 

Cook says that the windlass’s chain wildcat, or gypsy (the coglike mechanism that controls the chain), must be spec’d to match the ­specific chain with which it will be paired. (Wildcat is the term typically used in the States; gypsy is preferred by Brits. To further confuse matters, in the US, an additional drum around which an anchor rope is wound is called the gypsy; the Brits call it a warping head.) 

Wildcats typically ­are ­modular, and Cook suggests that cruisers mail a small section of chain to the windlass’s manufacturer (or distributor) to ensure that the chain wildcat’s web (that is, the teeth that engage the chain links) is properly matched.  

While chain-and-rope rodes are common in North America, this isn’t the ­international norm. “No one uses rope ­except the US. Everyone else ­uses all-chain rodes,” says Jim Thomas, Imtra’s product ­manager for Lofrans and Muir ­anchoring products. He says rope-to-chain rodes evolved in the 1990s as a cost-cutting measure. These setups are rigged with the chain attached directly to the anchor on one end and spliced to rope (typically three-strand) on the other. While this setup reduces bow weight (“aah,” the racing sailor says), anyone who might eventually want an all-chain rode should consider this when spec’ing their windlass. 

Swivels are sometimes ­situated between the chain’s last link and the anchor. ­Thomas notes that swivels are helpful in removing twists from the anchor rode during recovery. Meanwhile, if the anchor-roller wheel has a notch or a groove, this helps in aligning the links for entry into the gypsy, he adds. And the swivel’s
articulation helps align the chain as the anchor is pulled onto the roller. Additionally, swivels can help a set anchor negotiate windshifts and rising and falling tides, but Thomas and Schutz are both quick to point out that each additional proverbial link in the chain could be a point of failure. ­Because of this, both experts encouraged customers to use only high-quality swivels.

Any boat that’s equipped for anchoring with a windlass should have a bow-­mounted anchor roller, which ­safely contains the anchor on deck and helps keep the rode in line with the windlass. As ­mentioned, it’s important to ensure that the roller’s shape matches the profile of your ­anchor chain.

There’s still more to note when it comes to assessing a vessel’s anchoring system. “­Anchor lockers are ­unfriendly environments,” Schutz says of the belowdecks space where the rode is stowed. “They’re oversaturated with salt air.” This is a result of the ­inevitable water and harbor mud that windlasses raise along with the hook. The rub is that anchor wells usually contain the windlass’s power cables and, depending on the design of the windlass, its gear box. As a result, experts suggest that cruisers employ a bow hose or shower to rinse the rode as it’s ­hoisted, and to give the windlass, the ­anchor, and its rode freshwater rinses when possible.

Up and Down or Sideways

As mentioned, there are two common windlass designs: horizontal and vertical. While both retrieve anchor gear, the drive shaft on horizontal ­windlasses is horizontal, while vertical windlasses employ vertical drive shafts. This means that the chain wildcat on a horizontal windlass spins like a Ferris wheel, while the chain gypsy on a vertical windlass turns like a merry-go-round. 

“Horizontal ­windlasses don’t have as much ­contact with the chain,” Thomas says, adding that the wildcat on a horizontal windlass ­typically has 110 degrees of chain ­contact. Conversely, “a vertical windlass has 270 ­degrees of surface contact. Vertical windlasses are better with rope-and-chain rodes, while horizontal windlasses are better-suited for all-chain rodes.”

Because of their fixed-­volume nature, anchor wells often dictate how much rode one can carry, and they can ­influence one’s purchase decisions. “The distance between the windlass to the top of the line stack in the locker matters,” Schutz advises, adding that horizontal windlasses work best if this distance is at least a foot, while vertical designs work best when there’s 12 to 18 inches separating the windlass from the top of the line stack.

The other major design ­difference involves how much of the windlass is situated ­abovedecks. Horizontal windlasses are typically entirely deck-mounted. This frees up bow-locker space, but they occupy more deck real estate than vertical windlasses, which typically employ a belowdecks gear box. While Thomas advises that deck thickness can sometimes steer purchase decisions, given that most vertical windlasses use drive shafts that top out at 5 inches, Cook points out that custom shaft lengths can usually be accommodated. That said, unless you sail a wooden classic, odds are good that your fiberglass deck is only an inch or two thick. 

Besides their design ­orientation, there are a variety of ways to control their ­operation. One common way is to employ deck-mounted foot switches, with one pedal lowering the rode and the other reversing the ­direction of the wildcat to retrieve it. Manufacturers also offer ­handheld controllers, wireless ­key-fob-like controls and even helm-mounted controls. 

Lowering an anchor and its rode is fairly straightforward. Some cruisers install chain or rope counters in the system to help quantify the amount of deployed scope. Others paint the chain and rode at ­regular intervals or use a variety of plastic or cloth markers. It’s worth noting that at present, windlasses still employ solenoids to control the direction in which the wildcat turns. This means that windlasses have yet to become NMEA 2000 compatible, and therefore they currently ­cannot be controlled via the vessel’s chart plotter, a networked smartphone, or a digital-­switching system. However, the experts interviewed for this story suggest that NMEA compatibility is coming in the next year or two.

Put It to Use

Once the anchor is set and the scope properly ­adjusted, ­experts suggest transferring the load off the windlass’s gear box and onto independent hardware. If you’re ­running a chain-to-rope rode, the easy solution if all of the chain is out is to tie the rope to a bow cleat. If you’re using an all-chain rode, manufacturers offer various hooks and/or snubbers that attach to a cleat and to a link in the chain, thus transferring the load off the windlass. As an aside, most modern catamarans come with a bridle arrangement that’s been pre-installed and which keeps the rode centered ­between the two hulls.

One of the smartest things anyone told me about sailhandling involves ­constantly looking at the sail or ­running rigging that’s affected when jumping a halyard or ­spinning a winch to ensure that ­something isn’t ­accidentally overloaded. Windlasses are no different. All experts agree that it’s wise to station one crewmember at the bow and another at the helm for ­anchor-retrieval work. They all also strongly recommend keeping the engine in gear (low RPM) and using it to drive the boat toward the anchor, with the forward crew either manually sweating in the rode or using the windlass. Once the rode is taut and near-vertical, it’s best to use the engine—not the windlass—to break the anchor’s grip on the seafloor. Once the hook is free, the crew can reengage the windlass, keeping a constant eye on things to ensure that the anchor roller or bow section isn’t damaged by overstraining the system once the anchor is on board.

If used properly, ­windlasses can greatly simplify anchor retrieval, but it goes without saying, just as with any high-torque system, it’s ­critical to pay attention and keep one’s hands clear of lines and ­moving parts.

As with all electrical ­systems, windlasses require DC juice. In a retrofit, this means an owner will ­typically have to run two, or ­possibly three, heavy-gauge cables forward to the bow from the house batteries. If you have a bow thruster installed that’s serviced by a local battery, this well of DC ­power can ­service the windlass too. The experts stressed the ­importance of situating a suitably sized windlass ­breaker as close to the battery as ­possible. “The circuit ­breaker ­protects the wires and the windlass ­motor,” Thomas says, advising that it’s wise to use thermal breakers.

Given that boatyards typically require two days of labor to install a windlass aboard a 40-footer, it’s tempting for do-it-yourselfers to tackle a windlass refit on their own. “It’s pretty straightforward, but you need to be comfortable cutting holes in fiberglass,” Schutz says, ­adding that vertical windlasses ­usually necessitate ­larger apertures. “It’s not super easy, but if you’re comfortable with power tools, it’s not a deal-breaker. Running the wires is the hardest part.”

Maintenance is the last ­major consideration. Aside from keeping the rode clean and occasionally rinsing it with fresh water, it’s important to use your windlass several times per season (more is better) to ensure that the lubricating oil inside the windlass’s case is evenly distributed along its internal worm drive. “The worm gear is set in oil halfway,” Cook says. “The worm gear can rust out above the oil” if it’s not regularly used. Cook also suggested periodically checking your windlass’s seals to ensure that water isn’t entering the casing and affecting internal oil levels. Schutz recommends that owners with vertical windlasses keep the belowdecks componentry properly painted to avoid rust or ­corrosion—in other words, touch up nicks and dings. Thomas also recommends keeping the system’s clutch cones clean and greased. 

Provided that users apply proper care and maintenance, a modern windlass should ­provide years of great service. And while there’s no ­escaping the added bow weight, this matters only if you’re more ­interested in winning pickle dishes than enjoying peaceful nights in beautiful locales with your friends and family. 

David Schmidt is CW’s ­electronics editor and occasionally writes on other gear topics.

Vendor List

Bainbridge distributes Italwinch:
bainbridgeintusa.com/italwinch
from $1,060.

Imtra offers windlasses from Muir and Lofrans:
imtra.com; from $1,200.

Lewmar:
lewmar.com
from $1,000.

Vetus distributes Maxwell windlasses:
vetus-maxwell.com
from $2,210.

Quick Spa:
quickitaly.com
from $1,500.

Schaefer Marine carries the Ideal windlass brand:
schaefermarine.com
from $4,000.

The post Refit a Classic Yacht with an Electric Windlass appeared first on Cruising World.

When it came time to replace the old and tired vertical windlass on Francis B, our Mason 44, I naturally opted for a horizontal windlass because it would free up space in the anchor locker and its motor would sit up on deck, where it could easily be maintained and repaired if needed (See “Choosing a Windlass,” at the bottom of this article).

Before I could bolt the new Maxwell HRC 10-10 into place, though, I first had to remove the old windlass and prepare the deck where it would sit — simple enough in theory, but as always, there were a few surprises along the way.

The line capstan and the chain wildcat, sometimes called a gypsy, slipped off easily from the drive shaft, revealing six bolts running through the bronze base of the windlass. These passed through the deck and supported the drive motor and gearbox below. The removal of the assembly revealed very severe corrosion around the bolt holes in the gearbox housing. Large washers under the nuts completely covered the problem. To make things worse, the gearbox housing was cast aluminum and the bolts were bronze. These are two metals that should never be mixed in a marine environment. The less noble aluminum will always be the loser.

On deck, the vertical windlass was mounted on a 2-inch-thick wood pad covered by gelcoated fiberglass. The builder put this down using 3M’s 5200. This powerful adhesive can usually be loosened up with a heat gun, which I didn’t want to use on our teak deck. Besides, the heat wouldn’t have penetrated the massive spacer block anyway.

After cutting through the spacer with a Sawzall reciprocating saw, I had to chisel the remains off the deck. The wood inside that base was rotten, which indicated that the backing piece under the deck — also gelcoated fiberglass over wood — likely would have to go too. I went at it with a cutting grinder and found out that the wood inside had turned to wet pulp. I replaced it with a solid chunk of teak glued in place with thickened epoxy.

To prepare the deck for the new windlass, I reamed out the soft balsa core around the original holes for bolts, windlass shaft and chain drop. After drying these areas using fresh air, sunshine and a heat gun set on low, I filled the bolt holes with epoxy. The large chain-drop opening, which would be visible when the new windlass was fitted in place, was filled with a teak plug.

I glued the thin paper template onto stiff cardboard first and then used this to double-check the alignment of the base with the run of the chain coming from the bow roller.

I planned to keep the hole for the shaft of the old windlass open to accommodate the wiring for the new windlass and its above-deck motor, but to protect the exposed balsa core, I sealed the edges with thickened epoxy.

The deck on our Mason has a slight camber, so I sanded the area under the footprint of the new unit as flat as I could.

Then, I used the template supplied with the new windlass as my guide for drilling the necessary bolt holes and a larger hole for the chain to fall into its locker. I glued the thin paper template onto stiff cardboard first and then used this to double-check the alignment of the base with the run of the chain coming from the bow roller.

Five awls helped me mark bolt locations and the center for the chain-drop opening. After that I punched out the full-size bolt holes in the template — more on that in a moment.

The new windlass is attached to the deck by studs threaded into its base. The bolt holes to accommodate them had to be drilled absolutely square — a challenge with a 2-inch-thick, slightly uneven deck. I needed to devise a jig. For this I used a piece of 3-inch-thick hardwood. Now guided by the template I put this wood on a drill press and cut four holes for the bolts. I also drilled a ¼-inch hole for the chain-drop center. My jig was ready.

I immobilized the jig on the deck with an awl through the ¼-inch center hole in the chain drop and checked the alignment with the chain once again. I drilled the first hole following the small prick the awl marked on the deck earlier. I put the bolt in, checked the alignment of the jig yet again and then went on drilling the remaining holes for the studs.

Next, I attached a hole saw to my ½-inch drill and cut out the chain drop. I sealed the raw edges of this opening with epoxy and slipped in a piece of bronze pipe, a bushing of sorts, to protect the balsa and teak from the chain when anchoring. With the studs screwed into the windlass base, I put the supplied gasket on. A little jiggling helped slip the bolts into the holes on deck and the whole windlass settled down easily — to my infinite surprise and relief!

The electric control components from the old windlass were in excellent condition so I left them in place, keeping the new solenoid pack that came with the unit as a spare. The new windlass has a chain wildcat for 10 mm chain, and I was assured it would work with our existing 3/8-inch BBB chain. Perhaps because the links of our hardworking chain were rusting, the windlass worked but with some occasional hiccups. I splurged on a new G4 chain and it fits perfectly. Apparently the G4 is manufactured to much more precise specifications. Our chain wildcat is designed to handle a combination of chain and line spliced directly into the chain links. Because of abrasion, I don’t believe the splice will last very long, so we have never tried hauling the rode in this manner.

Rather than releasing the chain manually and letting it run out, our new Maxwell has the ability to reverse its motor in order to drop the anchor. In the past, I’ve found that to be slow, so that by the time the anchor finds the bottom the boat has drifted far away from the chosen spot. So to me, this feature wasn’t worth the labor and the cost of the extra wire needed to take advantage of it. With that decision made, my work was done.

Tom Zydler and his wife, Nancy, have been frequent Cruising World contributors for over two decades. In recent years, they’ve chased the seasons to the Canadian Maritimes and back on their Mason 44 Francis B.

Windlass Manufacturer Guide

• Ideal Windlass is now owned (and windlasses are serviced) by Schaefer Marine. See idealwindlass.com; 401-884-2550.
• Italwinch windlasses are imported to the U.S. by Bainbridge International. See bainbridgeintusa.com; 781-821-2600.
• Lighthouse is a U.S. maker of all stainless-steel horizontal windlasses with under-deck motors, with a wide choice of gypsy/capstan combinations. See lighthouse-mfg-usa.com or info@lighthouse-mfg-usa.com; 951-683-5078.
• Lewmar manufactures windlasses in a wide variety of types and sizes. See www.lewmar.com/products; 203-458-6200.
• Lofrans is an Italian maker of popular models of all types; they are distributed in the U.S. by IMTRA. See imtra.com; 508-995-7000.
• Maxwell, now owned by Vetus, builds models of all types in New Zealand. See maxwellmarine.com or salesamericas@maxwellmarine.com; 714-689-2900.
• Muir is an Australian company, handled in the U.S. by IMTRA. See imtra.com; 508-995-7000
• Quick windlasses are made in Italy and distributed in the U.S. by QuickUSA. See quickusastore.com; 410-636-5991

Choosing A Windlass

When replacing or installing either a manual or powered windlass, you need to factor in the size of your boat and the depth of the water where you’ll likely be anchoring. The larger the vessel and the ­deeper the harbors, the more likely it is that you’ll go the power route. And unless your boat already has a hydraulic system, an electric windlass drawing either 12 or 24 volts is the way to go.

When selecting a windlass, first consider how hard it may have to work. The popular idea that the windlass only has to lift the combined weights of the anchor and the submerged length of chain is dangerously wrong. When the wind begins to blow and the sea builds, the usual tactic of powering forward to ease the load on the chain may not work as expected. The boat moves forward, the chain slacks and, as soon as you slow down or shift the transmission into neutral, the wind catches the bow and throws it sideways. Now the windlass has to pull against the wind and seas, and there is additional friction from the chain dragging across the bow roller. Combined, that’s a lot of extra resistance.

If your windlass is wired with an overload system — and it should be to avoid melting power cables that can ­carry 100 amps or more of current — the electric motor will stall. It will restart when the load eases out. Therefore, when retrieving the anchor rode, work the windlass in lulls when the chain is straight and not bar tight. If there is a sea running, engage the windlass when the bow goes down and stop it when the bow rises.

To get an idea of what size windlass your boat needs, check out the specifications provided by the various manufacturers. These show the maximum pulling power in pounds or kilos, along with the range of boat length and displacement a specific ­windlass can handle. Maximum pull means the load at which the motor stalls. Work load usually is rated at 1/3 of the stall load. Also look at the ­amperage required. This indicates the motor’s size and power, as well the size of the electrical wire that will be required between the windlass and ­battery and breaker. In general, it’s better to have a windlass that’s bigger than what the specifications call for. There are basically two types of windlass: vertical and horizontal. The terms can be confusing because they ­refer to the orientation of the ­axle and not the gypsy or capstan around which the chain or rope rode runs.

On a vertical windlass, a notched chain wildcat, which is also called a gypsy or chain wheel, sits above deck. In a typical installation, the windlass motor is below in the anchor locker. In most cases, the windlass will be mounted on the boat’s centerline. The anchor chain feeds onto the gypsy and is pulled nearly all the way around it before it drops into a pipe or hole that leads it into the anchor locker. A benefit of this design is that nearly the entire gypsy is loaded with chain. This setup works fine with a single anchor rode, but cruisers often carry a spare anchor with a line and chain rode. To handle the additional tackle, a capstan is sometimes mounted above the gypsy.

On a horizontal windlass, the motor is often — though not always — mounted on deck, which is a plus for any boat with limited anchor-locker space. Depending on the model, it is possible to mount a gypsy on either end of the horizontal axle, making it possible to have two anchors and rodes in use at one time, or a gypsy on one side for a chain rode and a capstan on the other for a line rode. With a horizontal windlass, the chain is engaged by the gypsy, makes a 90-degree turn and drops directly into the anchor locker.

The preferable horizontal windlass design is for the on-deck motor to have its own gasketed cover, which makes it very easy to service. By contrast, horizontal and vertical windlasses that have their motors below deck are exposed to the damp environment of the chain locker. Sooner or later water may work its way past seals or down a vertical drive shaft and cause corrosion and electrical problems. This is usually very difficult to detect. For me, the horizontal windlass with an ­above-deck motor is the way to go if you want longevity, ease of operation and easy access for maintenance.

As an added benefit, should the electrical motor seize up, almost all horizontal ­windlasses have an easy-to-use manual backup system, while some vertical windlasses ­require partial dismantling to install a hand crank.

Handling Multiple Rodes

In addition to a primary all-chain or chain-and-line anchor rode, many bluewater cruisers will have a second anchor rode of line with a relatively short length of chain. When not in use, the two rodes are separated in the chain locker by a fore-and-aft ­divider or some other partition. In such a case, some device must lead the chain from the windlass’ wildcat to its own storage space. Using a pipe for this causes the chain to twist as it comes in, so that after a few anchorages it will hockle into an unmanageable mess just when you may need to drop it in a hurry. A flat ramp of some sort, mounted at an angle on top of the divider, solves this problem. Having a capstan on the windlass in addition to the chain gypsy lets the line rode be ­retrieved so it can then be stored in the other anchor locker compartment.

Put a Plug in it

On the Francis B, the chain from the horizontal windlass goes into a hole in the deck that will also let water into the chain locker. Make sure this water runs out of a drain hole or into the main bilge through clean limber holes. For long passages, make a tapered plug from wood or rubber that fits the deck hole. Screw an eyebolt in the bottom of the plug. Then disconnect the chain from the anchor, attach it to the eye and drop the plug into the hole — the weight of the chain will help keep the plug in place. You cannot do this on a vertical windlass because the chain disappears into a naval pipe that feeds it into the anchor locker. A bundle of rags stuffed in the mouth of that chain pipe helps some. On one boat, I used a fistful of something akin to silly putty and that worked reasonably well too.

The post Installing an Anchor Windlass appeared first on Cruising World.

One expert says that finding the right answers before the installation is critical to its success.

Removing and replacing an old windlass is one of the most satisfying DIY projects a boater can undertake, but one expert says that the devil is in the details on any new installation. “It may not be rocket science,” says Jim Thomas, windlass specialist at Imtra, which distributes both the Muir and Lofrans brands. “But there are questions that need to be answered even before a do-it-yourselfer starts cutting holes or removing the old windlass.”

Thomas says that boaters need to pay attention not only to whether the windlass is vertical or horizontal, but also the physical size of the new windlass, its power draw, the depth of the anchor locker, and what rode materials will be used in the new system. Thomas has been answering questions about windlass installations for more than two decades and invites anyone interested in a refit to contact him for advice before getting started. “Many of our windlass sales go to boatyards for installation, but some boat owners will tackle the project themselves.”

Thomas mentioned that even though Imtra sells windlasses primarily through trade channels, the company will offer boat owners “the best advice it can” to make the installation go as smoothly as possible. Thomas even provides paper templates to owners at boat shows allowing them to compare the potential new windlass to the existing footprint of the original. This provides a clear perspective on the challenges of using existing deck cutouts. Knowing what will need to be filled, cut or modified takes the mystery out of the upgrade.

Thomas mentioned that even though Imtra sells windlasses primarily through trade channels, the company will offer boat owners “the best advice it can” to make the installation go as smoothly as possible.

Thomas even provides paper templates to owners at boat shows allowing them to compare the potential new windlass to the existing footprint of the original. This provides a clear perspective on the challenges of using existing deck cutouts. Knowing what will need to be filled, cut or modified takes the mystery out of the upgrade.

He sometimes asks boat owners for photos of the foredeck and anchor locker. “We do each project one windlass at a time,” Thomas says. “It’s important for owners to understand the different factors that make for a successful installation,” he says.

The different factors include vessel length and displacement, weight of the anchor, weight and length of the chain, plus the anchoring environment. Windlass types include horizontal, vertical, manual, electric or hydraulic. Some manage an all chain rode, others select a combination rope/chain rode. Where a combination rope/chain rode provides less total weight in the bow, it requires a scope of 7:1 when deploying the anchor. An all chain rode will increase bow weight, however, the scope can often be reduced to as little as 3:1. This can be a huge advantage in a tight anchorage, and it makes for a sound night’s sleep knowing that an all chain rode is deployed.

A new windlass involves both mechanical and electrical steps that need to be taken into consideration, says Thomas. “Owners like to talk about how big their boats are, but we’re more interested in what the windlass will actually be lifting,” he says. “Is it 350 pounds of chain for a blue-water sailing vessel or 100 pounds of rope and chain for a weekend boater rarely using the anchor? Those questions are important since even the same windlass types have different motor options.”

Getting the right roller for the windlass is vital too. “Pairing the anchor and roller correctly is an important starting point since the rollers are designed for specific anchor types – claw, fluke, wing or grapnel,” says Thomas. “Some anchors are self-launching and others are not. If you don’t have a roller, it’s important to find the right one.”

“A lot of refits on boats with no previous windlasses involve finding the best position,” says Thomas. “Are we going to locate the windlass on deck or on a shelf platform under a hatch? Some boats have been designed with undersized anchor lockers to maximize interior space, so we need to find out what type of depth we have in the locker.” Thomas says that ideally, 15 to 18 inches or more clearance from the top of the stowed rode to the underside of the deck is a good starting point, adding that windlasses also like a straight drop because redirecting the rode can create drag. Shallow anchor lockers create challenges as they don’t provide the necessary “drop” to offer hands free flaking as the rode is being recovered.

Beyond the mechanical considerations, electrical draw is also critical to any windlass system. “We need to find out the distance between the battery source and windlass to ensure that the wiring is correctly sized” says Thomas. “If we’re adding a larger windlass, we also need to make sure the circuit breaker is appropriately sized to avoid nuisance tripping. The electrical part of the refit is just as important as cutting holes or any other mechanical steps.”

Many boaters prefer to use a hand held remote or a cockpit switch, however, Imtra encourages that footswitches also be installed. “We respect the thought process that goes into this, but what if water intrudes into the hand remote or the helm switch malfunctions,” says Thomas. “If they have a pair of footswitches, we see it as a safeguard against potential system failure. It’s a matter of redundancy.” Imtra’s goal is to make the windlass system as safe as possible since it is a critical part of a boat’s operation.

Finally, boat owners will need to a choose specific finishes that range from chromed bronze, stainless steel, anodized aluminum or FRP housing. “Those options are often dictated by the brand,” says Thomas. “But many owners want the windlasses to enhance the look of the boat. Some even paint their FRP windlass housing to match the colors of their gelcoat.”

For more information about Imtra, its Muir and Lofrans windlasses, or its full offering of anchoring accessories, please visit www.imtra.com or call 508-995-7000.

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The windlass has become standard on most boats over 28 feet, largely because of its value in making anchoring much easier. Choosing the right windlass is rarely an issue on new-boat purchases, but refitting can be a challenge. The choices typically depend on the size and use of the boat, but owners often have to make choices between vertical and horizontal models, and between manual, electric or hydraulic power.

Matching an older windlass to a new model can also be tricky. “The newer models don’t always fit existing deck cutouts, so we’re finding that many owners are hesitant about doing the refit,” says Jim Thomas, product manager of IMTRA, which markets the Lofrans and Muir windlass brands.

IMTRA’s service philosophy, across all its marine product lines, is to ensure that customers select the correct product for their specific boats. For windlass customers, Thomas brings a selection of paper cutting templates to the boat shows, so they will have the exact dimensions of replacement windlasses. “Usually, their eyes light up because they can see the footprint of different options,” says Thomas. “It makes adding or replacing the old windlass a lot less intimidating.”

Thomas estimates that about half of IMTRA’s clients will install the windlass themselves, while boat yards do the other refits. Lofrans, which has been manufacturing windlasses in Italy since 1966, has a complete range of vertical and horizontal windlasses for boats from 20 to 160 feet LOA. “The brand is respected internationally for its durable construction,” says Thomas. “Most people consider the Tigres, just to name one of its models, to be bulletproof. They’ve built a great following because of their quality.”

Thomas says that having two world-class brands allows IMTRA to offer a broader range of windlasses for most boat types. Muir has been manufacturing windlasses since 1968 in Australia and has built up a global following for excellence and innovative design. “They’ve done something interesting recently on their horizontal windlasses by moving to FRP housing,” says Thomas. “The fiberglass housing eliminates corrosion typically associated with aluminum housings, and this medium readily accepts paint finishes. That makes them ideal for a refit since they can match the boat’s color.”

The other primary consideration for refits is whether existing wiring and circuit protection will work with the new windlass. Owners who have purchased older boats may need to upgrade the wiring, especially if they’re switching from a rope-/chain rode to a more powerful windlass managing an all-chain rode.

IMTRA will help owners choose the best windlass by reviewing existing cable diameters, distance to the battery source, and the amp rating of the original circuit breaker. “We compare this information to ABYC’s voltage-drop tables to make sure the equipment is appropriate,” says Thomas. “If it isn’t, then we recommend specific changes that need to be made.”

The company has created a Knowledge Base on its website at, www.IMTRA.com/support-knowledgebase.htm, that provides detailed product information about its windlass offerings. Boat owners can also submit questions about their specific situations. IMTRA also has a YouTube channel, accessed from the Knowledge Base, with videos on how to maintain a windlass.

Thomas says that it’s important to look at the big picture when doing a refit. “We take a systems-oriented approach by looking at all the components and then make our recommendations,” he says.

For more, please visit www.imtra.com.

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