croatia – Cruising World https://www.cruisingworld.com Cruising World is your go-to site and magazine for the best sailboat reviews, liveaboard sailing tips, chartering tips, sailing gear reviews and more. Fri, 08 Mar 2024 14:34:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 https://www.cruisingworld.com/uploads/2021/09/favicon-crw-1.png croatia – Cruising World https://www.cruisingworld.com 32 32 The Moorings Expands in Croatia https://www.cruisingworld.com/charter/the-moorings-expands-in-croatia/ Fri, 08 Mar 2024 14:34:34 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=52072 Power catamaran charters will be available from Dubrovnik starting with this summer’s season.

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Dubrovnik Old Town
The Old Town walls today still enclose Dubrovnik’s historic center, and it is possible to walk along them to enjoy the best views of the “Pearl of the Adriatic” and the surrounding lush green islands. Courtesy The Moorings

The Moorings, which has more than 20 destinations worldwide, is adding power catamaran charters out of Dubrovnik, Croatia, beginning this summer.

Customers in this destination will be able to book a Moorings 403PC, which accommodates as many as six people in a three-stateroom layout. The boat also has a generator, air conditioning, and a fully equipped flybridge. 

Dubrovnik is a walled city that has become increasingly popular with visiting yachts in recent years, in no small part thanks to many scenes from the HBO series Game of Thrones being filmed there. The city itself is enchanting to explore by foot, and a weeklong cruising itinerary can include lots of interesting nearby sites.

For instance, there’s the settlement of Šipanska Luka on Šipan island. In the past, nobles from Dubrovnik would come here for the landscape, fertile lands and shelter from wind. The harbor has an anchorage, and local restaurants have mooring buoys.

Moorings charter catamaran
The key to an unforgettable Dubrovnik cruising adventure that is both fast and fun lies right beneath your feet, on a state-of-the-art boat built for optimal comfort and performance on the water. The Moorings 403PC delivers just that. Courtesy The Moorings

Also nearby is Badija Island, the largest of the islands in the Korčula archipelago. The most dominant feature of the island is a Franciscan Monastery built in the 14th century, but the most active sight that cruisers typically see is the island’s deer. They will approach visitors who offer food, and will take it directly from a human’s hand.

Another nearby stop is the town at Hvar Island, a popular vacation spot that can be busy in the summertime, but that is nevertheless worth a visit. There is a quay and mooring buoys, or cruisers can moor at the Pakleni islands archipelago and take the tender over for a look. Archaeological attractions here include the Fortica Fortress, cathedral and Franciscan monastery.

Yet another place to explore is Lastovo Island’s Skrivena Luka. This island is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the Adriatic Sea, amid an archipelago of 45 uninhabited islands. It is the opposite of Hvar: unspoiled by tourism. It is instead a nature park with beautiful scenery. Its Struga Lighthouse was built in 1839 at the mouth of Skrivena Luka Bay. It is one of the oldest lighthouses in Croatia, on the edge of a steep cliff.

Mount Srd
The Dubrovnik Cable Car has been taking travelers up to the top of Mount Srd since 1969. Courtesy The Moorings

And don’t miss: Polače at Mljet Island. This is one of the oldest settlements on Mljet, and is surrounded by islands: Tajnik, Moračnik, Ovrata and Kobrava. Many cruisers stop here to check out the ruins of structures from ancient times, as well as the current village, which largely dates from the late 17th and early 18th century. Cruisers can rent bicycles and kayaks here, and there are restaurants for sampling the local cuisine.

Where to learn more: visit moorings.com

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Setting Sail: Adriatic Adventures on a Flotilla Charter https://www.cruisingworld.com/destinations/sailing-the-adriatic-croatia/ Fri, 06 Oct 2023 14:00:00 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=50758 On a Sunsail charter to Croatia, one crew finds plenty of reasons to raise a toast and say zivjeli to good food, new friends and fantastic sailing.

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the Croatian coast
The color schemes at play along the Croatian coast are ­breathtaking, and secluded anchorages are everywhere when you need a break from the bustle of village-side quays. Jon Whittle

The mid-May sun was surprisingly hot as we spun into the wind, idled the engines, and hoisted the big roachy main aboard San Fredelo II, the Sunsail 404 catamaran that would be home for the next five days. Next, we rolled out the genoa and bore away to a beam reach, leaving provisioning chores, briefings, crew introductions and the Marina Agana astern. 

Sailing, at last—in Croatia. A longtime entry on the proverbial bucket list was about to be scratched off as my sailing pal and trip organizer, Josie Tucci, vice president of marketing at Sunsail, steered us eastward and out of the narrow bay toward open water dotted with islands. Near the helm, her brother, Jason, and I trimmed in the sheets and tidied up as we began making way. To port, I could see cars on the coastal highway, headed north from the international airport in Split. To starboard, the rocky, brush-covered shoreline rose to meet a sky that was fairy-tale blue. Already, my colleague, photographer and drone junkie Jon Whittle was snapping away. How could he not? The sights were otherworldly in this centuries-old corner of the Adriatic Sea.

Around us that Sunday morning, the crews aboard nine Sunsail monohulls were going through similar drills, as one by one they raised sails and pointed their bows toward Milna, on the island of Brač, the flotilla’s first-night destination, where a gin-and-tonic reception awaited us.

Mark Pillsbury heading into the Adriatic
Easing the sheet on the Sunsail 404 San Fredelo II, CW Electronics Editor Mark Pillsbury enjoys the relaxed heading in the Adriatic. Jon Whittle

I’d never sailed in a flotilla before, but already, less than a day into it, I was enjoying the concept of exploring a new destination with a helping hand, if you will. Earlier that morning, after a buffet breakfast of eggs, sausages, fruits, and doughnuts at the marina’s restaurant, skippers, and crew gathered in a shady spot to meet Sunsail’s flotilla captain, Samantha “Sam” Algero; hostess Ellie Riccini; and “Drago,” the team engineer. This trio would be on hand to assist and advise 24/7. When it was time to go, they’d be the ones handing us our dock lines. And when we arrived at a new location, their boat, Hvar 1, would already be tied up. They’d be waiting to take stern lines as skippers nervously (at first, anyway) backed in to moor stern-to at each new village.

“Slow is pro,” Sam reminded us frequently the first few landings.

Ellie too dispensed practical info. “Keep the boats tidy,” she urged. “A tidy boat is a safer boat.” And, “Beware the sea urchins.”

At that first briefing, Sam and Ellie outlined the week ahead: daily skipper meetings at 0900, lunch where you like, and each evening a different destination with a suggested time of arrival. At night, there were organized events to attend—or not. Wednesday, we were free to sail wherever we liked, so long as we all regrouped in time for dinner on Thursday.

map of Croatia route
Route through the coastal islands of Croatia. Map by Brenda Weaver

They went over the fine points of Lateral Navigation System A (red and green buoys are opposite where they would be in the United States), safety issues, and local weather to watch. The bura is a gusty northeast wind that brings clear conditions. The jugo: southeast breezes with rain. The maestral northwesterlies tend to build in the afternoon. 

And these words of caution: “If you didn’t eat it, don’t flush it.” Holding tanks were to be emptied 2 miles offshore, and there was a 100-euro fee to fix a clogged head.

Alrighty, then. Duly warned.

But best of all, their review of the charts greatly ­simplified finding the Croatian place names that were difficult to ­pronounce, tough to understand, and even harder to spell.

Off to the Islands

Josie, Jason and I had spent Saturday afternoon provisioning at the nearby Tommy’s market. For a few coins, you could borrow a shopping cart to deliver groceries to the boat. We stocked up on lunch meat and breakfast fare, Croatian wine, and Ožujsko, a local beer. That evening, we had dinner at the marina and sat on San Fredelo’s tramp watching the moon rise over the opposite shore. The water was still, and the reflection of the square stone tower at the head of the harbor was crystal-clear.

Drone overhead of Hvar
Armed with his drone, photographer Jon Whittle gave us a bird’s-eye view of the lively harbors on the island of Hvar. Jon Whittle

Sunday turned out to be a perfect day to regain our sea legs, with a northerly breeze in the midteens sending us on our way. We stopped for a late lunch and anchored in the pretty little harbor at Stomorska, on Šolta, a point that was about halfway into our 18-nautical-mile sail. The anchorage allowed an imposing view of the towering mountains that rise above metropolitan Split. Ashore, a handful of fishing boats sat idle, and we saw but a few folks moving about amid the distinctive white villas with red-tile roofs.

From there, it was an easy run to Milna and the Marina Vlaška. As Josie backed the cat toward the quay, Jason and I stood on either transom with boat hooks in hand. We handed our stern lines ashore, and the Sunsail team held up bowlines for us to grab and take forward. The ropes are sunk when not in use, and are led from shore to anchors in deeper water. It was an amazingly drama-free operation.

relaxing on a charter boat
Each day of the flotilla delivered great ­sailing and time afterward to chill. Jon Whittle

Once we were settled, we grabbed swimsuits and found a nearby rock from which to jump. The seawater was cool but refreshing, making a hot shower at the marina afterward feel all that much better. Then we headed up the hill, past olive trees and stone terraces, to claim our gin-and-tonics, and to chat with other crews as they came and went.

At sunset, we walked a mile or so along the shore road into town. On the way, we passed a street vendor and stopped to buy four garishly colored Croatia ball caps that quickly became our team hats. In the town center, a large, weathered stone church was lit up, along with other ages-old buildings. Behind them, we spotted more steeples draped in light. We found an open table at a small pizzeria and washed down our slices with tasty local wine.

Of course, we posed for photos with the colorful, whimsical ice-cream-cone statue we passed on the way back to the boat.

Relic of War

A look at the charts reveals that along this part of the Croatian coast, long, thin, mountainous islands run roughly west to east from the open Adriatic, as though some ancient creature drew fingers though terra firma, allowing the sea to run in between.

man foiling on the water
Calm waters make for good foiling. Jon Whittle

On Monday, we didn’t have a lot of wind as we motored out of Milna and turned southwest to navigate the channel between Šolta and Brač, and turned again southeast to follow the coast. We passed numerous marine farms and inviting anchorages, but we’d already decided that our lunch-stop destination would be a small bay a few miles south, where a submarine base dating back to when the country was part of Yugoslavia is carved into the hillside. Once we’d found the cove and anchored, we launched our inflatable and took a ride inside the long, narrow tunnel once used by naval vessels to avoid detection. Rather than seeing warships, we found cool relief from the sun-splashed bay. Today, fishermen use the rock-lined safe haven to tie up their skiffs. During our visit, there wasn’t a soul around. Instead, small birds darted about, their shrill chirps echoing off the rock walls.

The cove was quite protected. As a few others in the flotilla fleet arrived and dropped anchors, we took turns exploring on the two paddleboards we’d brought along. 

That afternoon, a lazy breeze picked up from the northwest, and San Fredelo ran before it as we headed for the harbor at Jelsa, on the island of Hvar, across a body of water marked on the chart as the Hvarski Kanal. After a morning of motoring, all aboard welcomed the sail, but the dead-downwind heading proved both crash-jibe prone and slow. Eventually, we kicked on the motor again to make the harbor in time for a 1600 tie-up. After all, wine and hors d’oeuvres at a waterside restaurant, organized by Sam and Ellie, awaited us. 

church tower in Jelsa
A short walk from the waterfront, the illuminated church tower in Jelsa stands out in the evening light. Jon Whittle

Jelsa lies near the midpoint of Hvar’s north shore. Its harbor is a relatively square body of water, protected by stone jetties. Wide, flat stone walkways around the waterfront give the place an open plaza-like feel. When we arrived, several flotilla boats were already tied stern-to, but Capt. Sam directed us to an open spot, and her crew scrounged up a plank for us to use as a passerelle. 

The restaurant, the iconically spelled Me and mrs Jones, was on the far side of the harbor. Our stroll there took us past palm trees and weathered stone buildings—some white, others a faded pinkish color. Inside the restaurant, the front room had been cleared out to make space for a table covered with wineglasses, carafes of red and white wine, and trays piled with appetizers made with anchovies, shrimp, and assorted meats and cheeses. Soon, the stone-block-lined room was packed. 

After an hour, the crowd thinned and the staff began setting tables for dinner. Jason and I took a half-empty carafe of red and sat at a table outside with a couple from the flotilla who were sailing aboard a Jeanneau 34. Steve was from England, Josephine from Hong Kong. Prior to the pandemic, these longtime friends would meet at various locations around the world for sailing vacations. This was their first time together since the global shutdown. They planned to keep the boat at the end of the week, and sail up and down the coast a bit longer. Like sailors everywhere, we talked about weather, memorable voyages and, of course, our current adventure, which they were finding to be quite social compared with their usual visits to quiet, remote anchorages.

People hanging out at night on a catamaran
Our roomy cat attracted the after-hours crowd. Jon Whittle

As we were about to leave, a pair of women rode up on bikes and sat at the table next to us. They pointed to the road winding up the towering mountains that form a spine atop Hvar and said that they’d just come over them from the other side of the island. No wonder they were ready to sit down and quench their thirst.

That evening, we strolled up into the hillside town from the waterfront. The stone streets were polished smooth by centuries of foot traffic, the narrow lanes between buildings too tight for cars. The sounds and smells from the open-air Konoba Nono restaurant were irresistible. Its barbecue was excellent, and we topped it off with glasses of rakija travarica for dessert. The strong-tasting liquor, often made of plums and herbs, is a Croatian delicacy and must at least be sampled, in my humble opinion.

I say “sampled” because in abundance, it can lead to unexpected consequences. After dinner, Jason returned to the boat while Jon, Josie and I continued to explore. Our ramblings took us past age-old churches and through tight, twisting alleyways, past homes with laundry left out to dry in rocky courtyards. Eventually, our footsteps led us to a tavern, which led to Croatian beer and then more rakija. We were left spellbound by the sweet folk melodies that a woman named Anna and her male vocalist partner sang as they leaned against the bar, drinks in hand. When the bar closed, we lingered outside, talking with the singers. He had to work in the morning and said goodbye. Anna? Well, we followed her to the small bar she owns and sat talking until dawn, then went with her to watch the sunrise from a beach.

That’s the thing about a sailing trip to Croatia. The people are as warm and friendly as the islands are lovely. It was easy to strike up a conversation with just about anyone. Most Croatians we met spoke English. Every storekeeper had a smile. The owner of an olive shop, recommended by a waiter and contacted by phone one evening, agreed to open early the next morning so that we could buy delicacies to take with us. Strangers couldn’t wait to tell us why we had to visit their favorite spot. Everyone had one. It’s easy to fall for such charms.

prosciutto being carved
Freshly carved prosciutto, anyone? Jon Whittle

Off On Our Own

It’s perhaps not surprising that we were the last boat off the quay Tuesday morning. Not to worry—we had just a 12-nautical-mile hop to the west along Hvar’s north coast to reach the protected bay off Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in Europe. The little wind we had as we left Jelsa was on the nose, so we chose to motor instead of sail. It was yet another lovely little adventure on the water, complete with dolphins. Across the channel, the mountains on Brač were a patchwork of earth tones and greens, the hues of olive trees and gluhi bor, a black pine that covers the arid landscape. Ferries crisscrossed the channel, and we passed numerous small fishing boats and saw flocks of birds working the water roiled by baitballs off in the distance.

By 1430, we were tied up to yet another stone quay in a snug ­harbor surrounded by a bustling town. We moored just in front of the town’s municipal showers, which were handy. From there, Jon and I walked a half-mile or so along the quay to restock at a Tommy’s market, and then met the rest of our crew for a late lunch.

Back at the boat, we sat under the cockpit Bimini top in a feeble attempt to evade the stifling afternoon sun, and chatted with the crew aboard the flotilla boat moored next to San Fredelo. 

We dined ashore that evening at Nook Stari Grad, a restaurant recommended by a passerby. The woman waiting on us had ­recently returned from living in Rochester, New York, and we met another member of the waitstaff who’d been lured back from California. Both were tickled to be home. The Nook’s chicken curry was spicy, the beer was cold, and the open-air seating under an arbor of trees was absolutely delightful. We walked the long way back to the boat, through more narrow stone streets. On the ­waterfront, there wasn’t a ripple on the harbor, and even in the town center, the quiet was interrupted only by the occasional dog bark.

Wednesday was our free day, and a bura was forecast for the afternoon. After looking at the chart and cruising guide, we decided to sail southeast along the coast of Hvar and across the Pakleni Kanal to the island of Sveti Klement. 

We set sail as we left Stari Grad and tacked upwind around the western tip of Hvar. From there, we were able to bear away and reach down the middle of the channel between the two islands. Early on, the 10- to 12-knot breeze was perfect. But as the morning progressed, the wind clocked and turned gusty so that before long, the sea was covered with whitecaps. At the eastern end of Klement, we turned south and sailed through a marked channel that runs close to the island, and then doused sails as we spun to the west to motor a short way up the island’s south coast to Vinogradišće, a small, protected cove that’s home to Laganini Lounge bar & Fish house and a small mooring field just off its dock. After a swim, we headed ashore for lunch at a table overlooking the water, and watched two self-described influencers shoot photos of one another over glasses of bubbly. As we finished our dishes, a motorboat arrived to whisk them away, shooting selfies all the while.

Nighttime street in Croatia
Wandering the streets at night was a big part of the adventure. Jon Whittle

We spent a lazy afternoon swimming off the boat and, before sunset, walked a short distance across Palmižana, where we caught a water taxi to old-town Hvar. The wind was still gusty, and it was a wet ride back across Pakleni Kanal but well worth the trip.

Hvar is a vibrant city, the largest on the island, with a long history of being a trading and cultural center. The city was part of the Venetian empire from the 13th to the 18th century, and a naval base as well, with an imposing fort above the waterfront.

As in the other towns we’d visited so far, we walked. From the harbor, we hiked up a seemingly endless flight of stairs toward the fort. Shops, hotels, restaurants, and residences lined the steps and stone alleyways that led off to either side from occasional landings. We found a small, rock-walled cafe where we ordered a tableful of appetizers rather than a full dinner: sausages, meats and cheeses, octopus, sardines and the like, along with olives, anchovies and grappa. Afterward, we walked some more. A plaque on a monastery we passed dated the stately white-stone building to 1472. In one shop, we spotted a merchant armed with a knife, standing behind a huge slab of prosciutto held upright on an iron stand. You bet we had him carve off slices to take back to the boat, along with a couple of bottles of cherry grappa. 

At 2130, with minutes to go before the last water taxi ­departed for Palmižana, we hustled back down flights of stairs to the waterfront, arriving at the dock with little time to spare. Over the course of the evening, the winds had died, and we had a lovely ride back to Klement, with the night sky ablaze with stars.

Last-Night Raft-Up

After a swim and coffee Thursday morning—and, how could I forget, spinach-and-tomato omelets—we motorsailed east along Klement’s south coast, winding through Soline Bay and the outcrops of rocks at the end of the island. From there, we reached northwest to Šolta and anchored in the bay at Tatinja—called Uvala Tatinja Lonely Paradise on the chart.

Lonely it was. There were only two other boats anchored there and just a couple of houses onshore. In front of us were centuries-­old stone terraces built into the hillside and groves of trees; ­behind us, nothing but the deep-blue Adriatic Sea and a cloudless, deep-blue sky overhead.

That night, we anchored stern-to on a rocky shore in Šešula, with the entire flotilla rafted together in front of a small restaurant. The bay was quite large, and we went exploring by dinghy, motoring alongside new friends Lawrence and Cathy in theirs. In a distant corner, we found a fish farm before turning back. In the afternoon, Sam and Ellie organized inflatable races, with two-person crews paddling their hearts out for bragging rights. 

Man on sailboat with headphones on
Amid the many social events, there was still plenty time to sit and enjoy a good sail. Jon Whittle

Dinner that night was a group affair, and afterward, the party moved back to the boats, where the monohull crews gladly came to visit our big, roomy cat, helping us clinch Best Party Boat honors at the farewell dinner Friday evening.

The next morning, Josie, Jason and I walked along a coastal trail lined with flowering bushes and the occasional modest house, and came to a small village, Maslinica, where we found a working marina, a couple of shops, a spot serving breakfast, and a 20-foot-long yellow-submarine statue with photos of John, Paul, George and Ringo staring out of porthole-like circles on its side. It was a sleepy tourist town, and a sign near its center said that it had received numerous national tourism awards, including one in 2017 for being the best Authentic Coastal Destination.

On our return that morning to Marina Agana, we had the wind on our nose again, so we took our time motoring toward the mainland. We made a detour to visit the long, deep bay at Vinišće; the shore was built up with houses on one side and an industrial-looking pier on the other. Instead of stopping for lunch, we raised the main and sailed across to the open bay off Trogir, anchoring for a spell to eat and swim.

And then, at last, it was time to return to the marina where we had started. On the dock, once the boat was squared away and ­before we took a taxi ride into the hills for one last group ­gathering, I chatted with Bill Truswell, an Irishman in his 70s, who, with his wife and two sons, had enjoyed this week of ­flotilla-style sailing.

“Stress is something I’m no longer needing in life,” he said.

I couldn’t agree more. 

The post Setting Sail: Adriatic Adventures on a Flotilla Charter appeared first on Cruising World.

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Myth-Busting Flotillas https://www.cruisingworld.com/sponsored-post/sunsail-myth-busting-flotillas/ Wed, 02 Aug 2023 19:26:53 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=50436 Whether you have a family who’s new to sailing or are an old salt who’s ready to try a new cruising ground, a Sunsail flotilla sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you need.

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Sunsail charter
Explore some of the world’s best cruising grounds with the support and reassurance of a Sunsail lead crew, set sailing route, and social events. Patrick Bennett

Did you know that one of the most popular ways to go on a sailing vacation in the Med is to join a flotilla? It’s a relatively novel concept in the North America and Caribbean charter markets, but if you want to expand your sailing horizons, it might be just what you’re looking for—whether you’re a newcomer to sailing or an old salt.

Curious? Let’s look at what a Sunsail flotilla is and what the experience is like by debunking some misconceptions.

What is a Flotilla?

Sunsail pioneered the flotilla charter concept in the 70’s and has since welcomed tens of thousands of sailors from all over the world to this unique social-sailing experience. Celebrating 50 years in business in 2024, Sunsail is the go-to charter provider for bareboat sailing and flotilla vacations. The company’s mantra is that it is run “by Sailors, for Sailors”, and this passion for sailing shines through every part of the customer journey.

Sunsail flotilla
Flotillas are for sailors of all experience levels. Sunsail flotillas are primarily available in the Mediterranean at bases in Croatia, Greece and Italy. Sunsail

 In its most basic form, a flotilla is a group of yachts chartering together with some extra support and a structured itinerary. What does this look like in practice? A Sunsail flotilla typically lasts one or two weeks, and has about eight to 10 participating boats along with a lead boat, which has a skipper, technician (to help with any mechanical issues on the boats) and host. Depending on the route and timing, there might even be an activity coordinator just for kids.

What makes the experience special is all the details—such as sailing routes, moorings and marina stays—are worked out ahead of time, and there is a variety of optional planned activities. Each morning, the flotilla skipper hosts a chart briefing to go over the day’s journey and any weather updates, as well as places of interest to visit. As the boats arrive at the destination, the lead boat crew is there for assistance with tying up at the night’s mooring or dock. The flotilla host plans events, including beach barbecues, punch parties and group dinners, so you can get to know your sailing group. The host can also direct you to the best restaurants, beaches and local attractions.

Sunsail flotillas are primarily available in the Mediterranean at bases in Croatia, Greece and Italy. Each flotilla destination has a unique itinerary, so you can choose something that interests you. Want some action? Try kitesurfing on a Lefkas, Greece, flotilla. Is history your thing? You’ll find an abundance of historical sites to visit on Sunsail’s flotilla route from Dubrovnik, Croatia. For something a little different, Sunsail also offers themed food-and-wine flotillas in Italy.

Learning to sail
Many recently certified sailors enjoy the structure and additional support flotillas offer, which allows them to get a bit steadier on their sea legs before doing a solo bareboat charter. Sunsail

“Our food-and-wine flotillas have proved incredibly popular,” says Josie Tucci, Sunsail’s vice president of sales and marketing. “We’ve redone our Croatia itineraries to capture even more of the coastline’s natural beauty and architecture, and we recently added another food-and-wine flotilla option in Italy. Our goal is to help Sunsail guests experience the very best of the region, as well as authentic local cuisine, at every stop along these itineraries.”

Still have some questions? Let’s bust some myths about flotilla charters!

Myth 1: I’ll be sharing the boat with strangers

Not true! Each boat on a Sunsail flotilla is booked and sailed individually, just like it would be if you were doing a bareboat charter. Just pick your crew and choose your boat! Alternatively, if you’re new to sailing (or just want to relax more), you can hire a skipper for the duration of the flotilla. Or you can turn the adventure into a real learning experience through the Sunsail Flotilla Hero program, which provides Royal Yachting Association instruction, allowing you to earn certification while on vacation.

Myth 2: We will have to sail in a line from place to place and won’t have any freedom to do what we want.

This is a common misconception about flotilla charters, but nothing could be further from the truth! While there is a set flotilla itinerary, charterers are free to sail as they wish between destinations many itineraries include a free day, allowing crews to set their own agenda. Any planned activities, meals or excursions are optional.

Myth 3: Flotillas are only for beginner sailors.

Flotillas are for sailors of all experience levels. Just like a bareboat charter, however, the skipper of the boat needs to be qualified. If you’re planning on a Sunsail flotilla in the Med, you will need to have certifications through ASA 104 (Bareboat Cruising) or US Sailing Bareboat Cruising. After that, you can apply for an International Proficiency Certificate, which is the US equivalent to the International Certificate of Competence typically issued by the RYA.

Sunsail flotilla
Sunsail offers specialty flotillas that cater to families, groups, solo travelers and specific interests. Sunsail

Many recently certified sailors enjoy the structure and additional support flotillas offer, which allows them to get a bit steadier on their sea legs before doing a solo bareboat charter. Are you an old salt but new to chartering in the Med? A flotilla is an excellent way to get familiar with a new cruising ground. Cruising with kids? Sunsail flotillas are great for families and provide opportunities for the kids to make some new friends.

Sunsail Flotilla vacation
Aboard a Sunsail Flotilla vacation you begin the week as complete strangers, but leave with a lifetime of memories with lifelong friends. Sunsail

Ian Pedersen, Sunsail’s senior marketing manager, offers one piece of advice for someone looking to try their first flotilla: “Keep an open mind, and embrace the social aspect of the flotilla concept,” he says. “People from all over the world and all walks of life come together to celebrate a week on the water, and that is where lifelong acquaintances and friendships can be made. You begin the week as complete strangers, but shared experiences like this really have a way of bringing people together.”

Start booking by visiting sunsail.com or speak to a Sunsail vacation planner directly by calling 800-734-5254.

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Myth-Busting Flotillas https://www.cruisingworld.com/sponsored-post/myth-busting-flotillas/ Mon, 01 Aug 2022 04:00:00 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=48824 Whether you have a family that’s new to sailing or are an old salt who’s ready to try a new cruising ground, a Sunsail flotilla sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you need.

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Sunsail flotilla
Whether you have a family that’s new to sailing or are an old salt who’s ready to try a new cruising ground, a Sunsail flotilla sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you need. Sunsail

Did you know that one of the most popular ways to go on a sailing vacation in the Med is to join a flotilla? It’s a relatively novel concept in the North America and Caribbean charter markets, but if you want to expand your sailing horizons, it might be just what you’re looking for—whether you’re a newcomer to sailing or an old salt. Curious? Let’s look at what a Sunsail flotilla is and what the experience is like by debunking some misconceptions.

flotilla sailing vacation
A flotilla sailing vacation is for anyone looking to get out on the water. Sunsail

What is a Flotilla?

In its most basic form, a flotilla is a group of yachts chartering together with some extra support and a structured itinerary. What does this look like in practice? A Sunsail flotilla typically lasts one or two weeks, and has about 8-10 participating boats along with a lead boat, which has a skipper, technician (to help with any mechanical issues on the boats) and host. Depending on the route and timing, there might even be an activity coordinator just for kids.

Sivota
A Sunsail flotilla has about 8-10 participating boats along with a lead boat, which has a skipper, technician (to help with any mechanical issues on the boats) and host. Sunsail

What makes the experience special is all the details such as sailing routes, moorings and marina stays, are worked out ahead of time, and there is a variety of optional planned activities. Each morning, the flotilla skipper hosts a chart briefing to go over the day’s journey and any weather updates, as well as places of interest to visit. As the boats arrive at the destination, the lead boat crew is there for assistance with tying up at the night’s mooring or dock. The flotilla host plans events, like beach barbecues, punch parties and group dinners, so you can get to know your sailing group. The host can also direct you to the best restaurants, beaches and local attractions. 

swimming
What makes the experience special is all the details such as sailing routes, moorings and marina stays, are worked out ahead of time, and there is a variety of optional planned activities. Sunsail

Sunsail flotillas are primarily available in the Mediterranean at bases in Croatia, Greece and Italy. Each flotilla destination has a unique itinerary, so you can choose something that interests you. Want some action? Try kitesurfing on a Lefkas, Greece, flotilla. Is history your thing? You’ll find an abundance of historical sites to visit on Sunsail’s new flotilla route from Dubrovnik, Croatia, to Montenegro. For something a little different, Sunsail also offers themed food and wine flotillas in Italy. Now that most pandemic-related restrictions have ended for travelers to Europe, it’s the perfect time to book your dream Med sailing vacation.

Still have some questions? Let’s bust some myths about flotilla charters!

Vounaki
Each flotilla destination has a unique itinerary, so you can choose something that interests you. Sunsail

Myth 1: I’ll be sharing the boat with strangers

Not true! Each boat on a Sunsail flotilla is booked and sailed individually, just like it would be if you were doing a bareboat charter. Just pick your crew and choose your boat! Alternatively, if you’re new to sailing (or just want to relax more), you can hire a skipper for the duration of the flotilla. Or you can turn the adventure into a real learning experience through the Sunsail Flotilla Hero program, which provides Royal Yachting Association instruction, allowing you to earn certification while on vacation.

Sunsail flotilla
Each boat on a Sunsail flotilla is booked and sailed individually, just like it would be if you were doing a bareboat charter. Sunsail

Myth 2: We will have to sail in a line from place to place and won’t have any freedom to do what we want.

This is a common misconception about flotilla charters, but nothing could be further from the truth! While there is a set flotilla itinerary, charterers are free to sail as they wish between destinations, and many itineraries include a free day, allowing crews to set their own agenda. Any planned activities, meals or excursions are optional.

sailing in the ocean
While there is a set flotilla itinerary, charterers are free to sail as they wish between destinations, and many itineraries include a free day, allowing crews to set their own agenda. Sunsail

Myth 3: Flotillas are only for beginner sailors. 

Flotillas are for sailors of all experience levels. Just like a bareboat charter, however, the skipper of the boat needs to be qualified. If you’re planning on a Sunsail flotilla in the Med, you will need to have certifications through ASA 104 (Bareboat Cruising) or US Sailing Bareboat Cruising. After that, you can apply for an International Proficiency Certificate, which is the US equivalent to the International Certificate of Competence typically issued by the RYA.

Flotillas
Flotillas are for sailors of all experience levels. Just like a bareboat charter, however, the skipper of the boat needs to be qualified. Sunsail

Many recently certified sailors enjoy the structure and additional support flotillas offer, which allows them to get a bit steadier on their sea legs before doing a solo bareboat charter. Are you an old salt but new to chartering in the Med? A flotilla is an excellent way to get familiar with a new cruising ground. Cruising with kids? Sunsail flotillas are great for families and provide opportunities for the kids to make some new friends.

Ionian Sea
Cruising with kids? Sunsail flotillas are great for families and provide opportunities for the kids to make some new friends. Sunsail

Ian Pedersen, Sunsail’s senior marketing manager, offers one piece of advice for someone looking to try their first flotilla: “Keep an open mind, and embrace the social aspect of the flotilla concept,” he says. “People from all over the world and all walks of life come together to celebrate a week on the water, and that is where lifelong acquaintances and friendships can be made. You begin the week as complete strangers, but shared experiences like this really have a way of bringing people together.”

If a flotilla adventure in the Med seems like the perfect remedy to the craziness of the last couple of years, Sunsail suggests booking early because dates for the remainder of 2022 and into 2023 are already filling up. Start booking by visiting www.sunsail.com/flotilla-sailing or speak to a Sunsail vacation planner directly by calling 800-734-5254.

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Back to Chartering (and Better than Ever) with The Moorings https://www.cruisingworld.com/sponsored-post/back-to-chartering-and-better-than-ever-with-the-moorings/ Thu, 28 Jul 2022 04:00:00 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=48814 Are you ready to get out there again? For many stir-crazy sailors, distant blue waters are beckoning after a tumultuous couple of years. A charter in the Bahamas, BVI or the Med may be just what you need.

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Moorings
Whether you’re after sunshine and beam reaches, rum drinks and reggae, or quiet anchorages and adventures ashore, a charter with The Moorings can have it all. The Moorings

There is nothing quite like a sailing vacation. Whether you’re after sunshine and beam reaches, rum drinks and reggae, or quiet anchorages and adventures ashore, a charter with The Moorings can have it all. Now that the world is opening back up, it’s time to ditch the staycation and choose a destination. Let’s take a look at where the hottest destinations are for 2022 and 2023, what’s changed in the world of charter sailing, and what you need to know before your next vacation.

Moorings charter boat
The Moorings

Back to the Bahamas, BVI and USVI

Long the most popular destinations for North American sailors, bases in the Virgin Islands and the Bahamas have had major setbacks from hurricanes and the pandemic. Fortunately, those days are mostly in our wake, and charter sailors can once again easily cruise the storied waters of the Sir Francis Drake Channel, the Sea of Abaco and the Bahama Banks. 

BVI
Once aboard your boat, the BVI is yours to discover. The Moorings

The Moorings base is fully open in Road Town, British Virgin Islands, at Wickhams Cay II, where you will find resort-like amenities to enjoy before casting off. Travelers no longer need to preregister at the travel portal for entry clearance and all Covid entry testing requirements have been lifted as of July 15, 2022. Once aboard your boat, the rest of the BVI is yours to discover—explore the magical Baths on Virgin Gorda, sip a Painkiller at the Soggy Dollar on Jost Van Dyke, and check out the Indians, one of the best snorkeling spots in the area.During the pandemic, the US Virgin Islands surged in popularity as a charter destination due to ease of travel for US residents. Once a well-kept secret, the allure of these islands is now getting the attention it deserves. From The Moorings base at the Marina at Yacht Haven Grande, you can explore all that St. Thomas offers, including abundant shopping and nightlife, then head out to explore beautiful and laid-back St. John, where you can experience the pristine beaches of Cinnamon Bay, excellent snorkeling at Leinster Bay, and even some hiking trails at Virgin Islands National Park.

St. John
Head to explore beautiful and laid-back St. John in the USVI, where you can experience the pristine beaches, excellent snorkeling at Leinster Bay, and even some hiking trails. The Moorings

The Moorings base at the Abaco Beach Resort in Marsh Harbour, Bahamas, reopened at the end of 2021 after recovering from the devastation wrought by Hurricane Dorian in 2019. “While the impact of the storm can still be seen on the main island,” says Ian Pedersen, senior marketing manager for The Moorings, “the cruising ground and outer cays have returned to form and are a spectacular sailing destination once again.” The central location of Marsh Harbour makes it the perfect place to start your exploration of the Abacos—a longtime favorite destination for cruising sailors. Enjoy sailing in the protected waters of the Sea of Abaco to destinations that include quaint villages, such as Hope Town and Green Turtle Cay, and abundant secluded anchorages.

woman on a boat
Now that the world is opening back up, it’s time to ditch the staycation and choose a destination. The Moorings

If you’re looking for an Out Islands experience, an Exumas charter might be for you. Departing from The Moorings base at Palm Cay Marina in Nassau, Bahamas, visitors can then cruise down to the Exuma Cays, a string of 365 islands and cays that stretch for 120 miles. Many sailors who have traveled the world agree that the Exumas are their favorite cruising ground. Once you go, you will understand. From exploring the mangrove creeks of Shroud Cay and the incredible Thunderball Grotto, to the friendly settlement of Black Point and colorful Staniel Cay, the Exumas offer a wide variety of experiences—and unforgettable sunsets on the Great Bahama Bank.

Both Bahamas destinations are fully open to vaccinated travelers, while unvaccinated visitors will need to show a negative COVID-19 test at check-in.

The Magical Med

If your dream sailing vacation includes exploring ancient ruins, villages steeped in history, and a variety of sailing conditions, a sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you’re looking for. “After so many people were unable to sail in Europe during [the pandemic], the Med sailing season is back and as popular as ever,” Pedersen says.

Mediterranean
If your dream sailing vacation includes exploring ancient ruins, villages steeped in history, and a variety of sailing conditions, a sailing vacation in the Mediterranean might be just what you’re looking for. The Moorings

From The Moorings bases in Italy, Greece and Croatia, visitors can choose the Med experience that suits them best. Looking for sun-soaked beaches, quaint tavernas and excellent scuba diving? Try a charter from Corfu in Greece. Does visiting an abundance of islands offering everything from wild, barren landscapes to historic towns and lively nightlife sound ideal? A Croatia and Dalmatian Islands charter is for you. How about a view of mountain peaks, incredible cuisine and soaking in hot springs? Check out a sailing vacation from Sicily.

Croatia and Dalmatian Islands charter
If visiting an abundance of islands offering everything from wild, barren landscapes to historic towns and lively nightlife sounds ideal, a Croatia and Dalmatian Islands charter is for you. The Moorings

Whichever you choose, a charter in the Med is an incredible experience. If you are looking to do a bareboat charter in one of these destinations, you will need to have an approved sailing license, such as an International Proficiency Certificate, or have passed ASA 104 (Bareboat Cruising) or US Sailing Bareboat Cruising courses. No certifications? No worries. Crewed charters are available with a captain and a chef.

Crewed charter
No certifications? No worries. Crewed charters are available with a captain and a chef. The Moorings

Ready to Go?

After two-plus years of various lockdowns and travel restrictions around the world, it’s no surprise that stir-crazy sailors are ready to get out there. If you’re considering a charter vacation in the near future, The Moorings strongly suggests booking as soon as possible to ensure you can get the yacht you want. “We are already seeing strong bookings for next summer and even fall of 2023,” Pedersen says.

paddleboarding
After two-plus years of various lockdowns and travel restrictions around the world, it’s no surprise that stir-crazy sailors are ready to get out there. The Moorings

So, gather up your crew, choose your destination and go sailing.

For more information and to start booking your charter vacation, visit www.moorings.com or speak to a vacation planner directly by calling 800-416-0247.

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Sailing the Coast of Croatia https://www.cruisingworld.com/story/destinations/sailing-the-coast-of-croatia/ Thu, 14 May 2020 00:53:00 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=44600 A journey along Croatia’s coast offers challenging sailing, picture-perfect anchorages and cultural experiences aplenty.

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Dubrovnik
The walled city of Dubrovnik looks imposing from the water, but this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of Croatia’s most visited locations. Queene Hooper Foster

Over the past six years, Scarlet, our 47-foot Warwick cruiser/racer from the mid-’80s, sailed east with a rotating crew from Martinique to the Mediterranean. During that time, Scarlet’s longtime owner, Spencer Smith, and I visited Portugal, Morocco, Spain, France and Italy, which left us wondering, what’s next? Do we turn around now? Had we reached the end of the popular part of the Med?

If we had turned around before we reached the Dalmatian coast, we would have missed what we now consider the best cruising ground in the entire Med. If you want islands, warm water, protected bays with snug harbors, modern marinas, and unfamiliar—even exotic—towns and cities steeped in ancient history, well, Croatia is the place. Small, ancient harbors are everywhere. They have sheltered sailors since earliest maritime history, and here they are, still sheltering cruising sailboats.

And, if you’re like Scarlet’s crew and sail with one eye on the GPS and one eye in a book about the history of your sailing grounds, you’ll be a happy sailor in Croatia.

Croatia’s shoreline forms the long, eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea (along with Montenegro and Albania). The Dalmatian islands lie close to the mainland, and are parallel to the east coast of Italy. The area has a long and complicated history, starting with the legendary Greek tales of Odysseus and Calypso, the oared warships of the Illyrians, the ancient maritime culture of the Roman and Venetian occupations, Ottoman pirates, tribal wars, Nazi occupation and then Soviet domination of Yugoslavia. Followed, of course, by the punishing civil war of the 1990s. Croatians are enjoying peace now, and have optimism for the future and pride in their beautiful landscapes, making it a rich and joyful cruising ground. There are islands galore: large ones with cities and medieval towns to explore, and small agricultural ones still inhabited by sheep, donkeys and, happily, the occasional small waterfront restaurant. The best way to see this maritime nation, with the spectacular mountains as a backdrop and wild islands to explore, is from the deck of a sailboat.

Trogir
Scarlet, a 47-foot Warwick racer/­cruiser, is tied up to a dock in picturesque Trogir. Queene Hooper Foster

History, Culture and Anchorages Galore

Superb destination cities such as Krk, Split/Trogir, lavish Hvar, and Marco Polo’s birthplace, Korcula, were built to trade by sea, providing a profitable sea lane between Venice and the East. Beset by centuries of marauding pirates and warlike neighbors—right up to the tragic wars of the 1990s—the cities present a fortified face to the sea. Within Croatia’s walled cities, there are cultural sites such as Venetian palaces, Benedictine monasteries, Ottoman mosques and, perhaps the most famous, the Emperor Diocletian’s elegant palace in Split. But the fortress walls are easy to penetrate now, and a sailor ashore has a fine choice of activities and culture to be discovered. The Austrian/Nazi submarine pens carved into the cliff faces are empty now, ripe for exploration by dinghy. Or you could lay your dock lines to a massive marble Roman quay on the sleepy island of Silba, where oared warships tied their lines a thousand years ago, seeking the protection of the same natural harbor.

All along the coast of Croatia you’ll find protected anchorages suitable for private boats, and others large enough for the busy fleets of chartered sailboats. The welcoming protective headlands provide a fresh choice of destinations every day, and even a selection of stops for lunch. In the lee of steep-sided islands, there are so many suitable anchorages that we stopped needing the advice in the otherwise excellent guidebooks—whenever we felt we needed relief from a headwind or sudden bora (the north to northeastern katabatic winds), we could find an anchorage near at hand. For example, we dropped the hook in the lee of the small island of Zut, where we walked to a delightful and good- natured restaurant on a hillside above the harbor. Another time we discovered a private swimming beach at the south end of Otok Lopud. Walking up the road from the wharf in Zlarin, we stopped to watch a family harvest green olives, and next to the ubiquitous olive groves, there was a perfect chapel, where votive bouquets were ­carefully arranged around the windows.

Spencer Smith
Spencer Smith, Scarlet’s ­long-time owner, could typically be spotted with a camera in hand while ­cruising Croatia. Queene Hooper Foster

Whenever we needed some culture, we could steer a course for a port city. Hvar, Split (and its close neighbor Trogir), Murter and Krk to the north, are our favorite ports, steeped in beauty as well as history at the base of 3,000- to 9,000-foot rock-faced mountains. Each of these ports offers splendid waterfront establishments, hotels, Airbnbs, taxis and airport connections, plus a full menu of services for the fleets of sailboats sweeping in through the hot days of summer.

Every few days, Spencer and I found that we liked to restock at the farmers markets, often located near the waterfront, or visit one of the modern marina establishments near the bigger cities. The whole coast is studded with welcoming marinas, designed to get sailors out racing, out to the islands, or on to the next port city. Croatia is the home of the largest sailboat charter fleet in the world, with about 4,000 boats, and Adriatic Croatia International is a well-organized chain of 22 marinas along the Croatian coast that are often located right near the most popular harbors and charter centers. These marinas consistently offered well-protected slips, knowledgeable repair staff, and good water and fuel. And they were usually located within walking distance from the restaurants and major museums in town.

We were beyond thrilled to set the anchor outside an intact roman sea gate—which to us looked like it could have been part of a movie set.

When cruising Croatia, be prepared to tie up Med-style, with the boat’s stern-to a stone quay and another vessel snugged right alongside. For the skippers who can steer in reverse gear at high speed and have use of a joystick and bow thruster to straighten out their craft, this looks easy. For the rest of us, with no joystick or bow thruster on the boat and little confidence in how it might steer in hard reverse, well, we just take it slow. The dockhands jump up when they see us approach, and with strong helping hands, take our lines and pass us the long underwater laid lines, which are secured to anchored chains far out in the channel. With many, many fenders, it can be done without mishap. We had better luck nosing in bow-first to the wharf, which protects the Monitor windvane hanging off the stern, and then climbing over the bow pulpit and the anchor roller to the wharf. This also makes the cockpit a little more private while on a busy waterfront, particularly in a popular town like Hvar, where crowds of tourists pass along the polished sidewalks and gaze at the boats.

Krk
You could spend weeks ­exploring within the ancient walls of Krk. Queene Hooper Foster

Our Favorite Places

On the southeastern end of the long, ­narrow Dugi Otok, (otok means “island,” dugi means “long”), which some consider the most beautiful of the Kornati Islands, lies Telascica Nature Park. Two friendly park wardens, who manage the property and extensive anchorage, came by in a small boat and collected a fee, charged per boat; in our case, the fee was 380 Croatian kunas, or about $42, which we were happy to pay in view of the pristine preserve. Although well-protected, this beautiful bay can get crowded with boats anchored in the sailing season. The inner harbor of Luka Telascica has a perfect anchorage 4 miles up the bay, where we were the only boat in our quiet cove. The next morning, we were awakened by donkeys, braying gently as they wandered the steep slopes.

On the rough shoreline of Luka Telascica, the sharp rocks are made of karst, a carbonate rock that characterizes the Croatian coast. Karst is a porous limestone that dissolves over time in flowing water, leaving caves, sinkholes and bonelike surfaces, scoured by the water moving through it. From a small dock, we picked our way across the sharp rocky beach and hiked up to the radio tower at the top of Dugi Otok. There we were surprised to find ourselves on the edge of an unprotected cliff edge, with a shocking 150-meter sheer drop-off into the water and a spectacular view across the aqua blue Adriatic Sea toward Italy.

The next day, on the eastern side of Dugi Otok, in the protected harbor of the town of Luka, we anchored for the day and watched a young woman and her grandfather head out on a small fishing boat; they returned in the afternoon with her catch.

That evening, when we asked the proprietress of the restaurant if they were open for dinner, she said it was their first day of the season and they had one “tooth fish” that she had caught with her grandfather that day. In honor of their opening, we had a free drink and the grilled tooth fish. Her grandfather, the same fisherman we had seen earlier in the day, sat at a table with some friends, and then we all watched the sun set over the harbor and the fishing boat, with Scarlet anchored nearby. That is offseason cruising in Croatia!

The Kornati Archipelago is a chain of water-washed cones of karst. The remarkable white pyramid-shaped moonscapes rise from the deep water of the Adriatic Sea. These white mountains, stunning and wild, are beautiful to see up close from the deck of a boat as the light changes along their smooth angled slopes. Sailing between the islands in Kornati National Park feels like a peaceful cruise on the moon, with spectacular anchorages close by.

Hvar
When moored in Hvar, stretch your legs on a walk up to the Spanish Fortress for a fantastic view of the town. Queene Hooper Foster

The enchanting, southernmost island of Mljet turned out to be our favorite stop. We entered a narrow opening into the long undeveloped bay to the small town of Polace. As we approached, I thought to myself: What is that high smokestack? An industrial ruin? Nope—it was a ruined palace! The walls of a Roman castle, built in the third or fourth century for the Roman Agesilaus and his poet son, tower above the small town. From the main pedestrian lane in the village, you can walk right up to the Roman walls, stare up at the stonework and marvel at the passage of history.

Most of Mljet is still wooded and green—a national park—laid out with manicured hiking trails, a lake and a picture-perfect island monastery. The modest park fee of 250 kunas (less than $40) covers three days of anchoring and hiking.

Some think Mljet may have been the home of the mythical nymph Calypso, who loved and entrapped the wandering sailor Odysseus, and held him captive in one of the caves on the island. After seven years, the immortal nymph was convinced by the goddess Athena to build Odysseus a boat and let him continue his journey homeward, according to Homer in The Odyssey. There is a nice seafood restaurant there named for her—the Calypso—where we sampled the local dish “Octopus Under the Bell.”

We found our own paradise, tied bow-in toward the Calypso’s terrace in Polace, and the stern anchored out on the long mooring lines provided.

Otok Krk is a large, settled island in the north end of the Adriatic, close to the Istria peninsula and Trieste, Italy, and it reflects the influence of the Venetian empire. The ancient town of Krk has a strong sense of history, marked by the obvious ruins of the Roman town of Curicum, where in 49 B.C., Caesar and Pompey fought a great sea battle. We were beyond thrilled to set the anchor outside an intact Roman sea gate—which to us looked like it could have been part of a movie set—where goods were traded through the fortress walls of Krk for the past millennia. We walked through the town and could see Scarlet at anchor, framed by the stone arch of the sea gate.

After a few years of seasonal cruising and visiting countries of the Adriatic Sea, we sailed Scarlet south into Greek waters. But for varied, well-protected harbors of sophistication and deep maritime history, Croatia remains dear to our hearts, and we are planning a return visit. There is a lot more to see there, and it is best seen from the deck of a sailboat.

Queene Hooper Foster sails her Concordia yawl in Maine these days, when not sailing for several months of the year on Scarlet, based in the eastern Mediterranean.


Chartering in Croatia

There is no doubt that Croatia offers a spectacular cruising ground, and that there is an abundant charter fleet available for visiting sailors. But there are a few hoops that American sailors will need to jump through before being allowed to charter a boat.

Croatia, like other European countries, requires ­bareboat-charter captains to produce internationally accepted paperwork demonstrating competency in handling recreational vessels.

What that means for Americans is that an experiential sailing resume and a US Coast Guard-issued captain’s license are of course helpful—yet incomplete—if you’ve set your sights on taking family and friends on a cruise along the Dalmatian coast.

The requirement dates back to the adoption of United Nations Resolution 40, a recreational boating safety initiative proposed by countries seeking to reduce accidents on the water and the corresponding strain on emergency services. The International Certificate of Competence required of sailors is laid out in detail as part of UN 40.

Because the United States isn’t a signatory of UN 40, alternatives recognized by the Croatian government and charter companies include the International Proficiency Certificate.

US Sailing and the American Sailing Association, as well as their extensive network of affiliate schools, offer the IPC as a viable path for Americans to charter abroad. NauticEd, an online-based sailing school, offers the Sailing License and Credentials course, which is also accepted by the Croatian government and charter companies. Other options include obtaining the ICC qualification itself through the Royal Yachting Association of the United Kingdom.

“Countries and charter companies have been accepting the IPC because it so closely aligns with the ICC,” says Rich Jepsen, vice president of the board of directors of US Sailing, the governing body of the sport. “It is the ICC in spirit, if not rule.”

Jepsen, whose background includes decades of certifying sailors with ASA and with US Sailing, is an advocate of ­certification and related requirements that keep vacationing sailors’ skills sharp in foreign waters.

While the cost of the IPC is nominal, it tests on-water practical proficiency and theoretical knowledge with regard to multiple nautical standards. For US Sailing members, the IPC is an extension of the organization’s Keelboat Certification System, which includes completion of the US Sailing Bareboat Cruising course. Experienced sailors can challenge the required prerequisite levels by successfully completing written and practical examinations.

ASA’s certification is similarly prerequisite-based. Member sailors qualified for the IPC are those who have successfully completed ASA basic and bareboat cruising courses 101, 103 and 104. Experienced sailors who want to challenge the course content and gain IPC certification must pass written tests and on-the-water skills assessments.

“Many excellent sailors fail the ASA written and on-the-water tests,” says Elbert “Ash” Ashbaugh III, an ASA affiliate instructor. “A prudent plan would be to study/review the appropriate ASA textbooks and self-analyze your skills before challenging the courses.” Another practical option for experienced sailors who haven’t taken any basic courses, Ashbaugh advises, is to take the 104-level course and arrange to also be tested for the 101 and 103 prerequisite courses.

The IPC issued by ASA and US Sailing is valid for five years from date of issue.

“The IPC is the cheapest and most dependable way to comply with the rules and get to see these sailing wonders,” Jepsen says. “Think of the expense and uncertainty of the average US sailor who wants to charter in Greece or Italy or Croatia. They will have to expand their vacation to include testing at an approved European facility, pay for and perform that test, and hope they pass so they can actually take their $10,000 charter they’ve had reserved for a year. The IPC isn’t perfect, but it’s a brilliant workaround to a large bureaucracy.”

Charter companies operating in Croatia include:

Activity Yachting

Adriatic Sailing

Dream Yacht Charter

Kiriacoulis Mediterranean

The Moorings

Navigare Yacthing

NCP & mare

Sail Croatia

Sunsail


Adriatic Weather

Croatia
During summer, sailors will enjoy Croatia’s predominately light to moderate breezes. Offseason, more-frequent bora winds can make cruising challenging. Queene Hooper Foster

The high season in Croatia is June, July and August, and features mostly easy sailing weather. Light to moderate breezes from the north or south predominate, and they rise in the late morning and decline with the sun. The steep mountains that line the shore of Croatia, however, and the narrow “kanals” between the mainland and islands—and between islands themselves—can cause local weather anomalies that will have you scrambling to shorten sail. If you see a bank of clouds resembling a beard over the mountaintops, particularly the Velebit mountains north and east of Split, be prepared to reef down and find a lee under a nearby island.

In the shoulder seasons of April/May and September/October, the weather might be challenging. The bora can bring high barometric pressure, clear weather and severe winds off the mountains. It might blow steadily for a day—or for three days. The bora’s warm southerly counterpart, the low-pressure jugo, arrives with squalls, rain, thunder and high drama. It also can blow for a couple of days.

Both of these weather systems are predictable, however. Marinas post the weather daily and internet weather sites are useful, but there might not be enough detail to show the local changes. You have to diligently watch the cloud formations over the mountain summits.

We were expecting a strong bora in October—the late sailing season—and from the 5,000-foot mountains to the north and east, the strong winds came. Every morning we would watch for the gray beards, great swirling cumulous clouds, hovering over the rocky summits of the mile-high Velebit mountains. Within a day, the katabatic winds off those slopes would be howling down the narrow Velebit Kanal, at a steady 40 knots. To us it seemed odd that high pressure and bright sunshine often accompanied these strong winds.

Weather info is easy to get in Croatia and Montenegro. Excellent cellular service and Wi-Fi are readily available in marinas and restaurants, and maritime weather forecasts like those available on the Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service’s website (meteo.hr) are easy to access, in the local language and in English. Most marinas post forecasts at their office. VHF weather is available, though the schedule can be hard to track. Be wary of nonmarine forecasts, which regularly underestimate the local wind strength.


Valuable Guides and Charts

Adriatic Pilot: Croatia Slovenia, Montenegro, East Coast of Italy and Albania, Eighth Edition By Trevor and Dinah Thompson 2020; Imray Laurie & Wilson Ltd.

The Adlard Coles Book of Mediterranean Cruising, Fourth Edition By Rod Heikell 2018; Adlard Coles Nautical

Imray Chart M23 Adriatic Sea Passage

Imray Chart M24 Trieste to Losinj and Rab

Imray Chart M25 Otok Rab to Sibenik

Imray Chart M26 Split to Dubrovnik

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Sail and Sip in Croatia https://www.cruisingworld.com/sail-and-sip-in-croatia/ Wed, 09 Mar 2016 02:57:11 +0000 https://www.cruisingworld.com/?p=42464 The Sunsail wine and culinary flotilla in Croatia, returns for 2016. Reserve your spot now!

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sunsail flotilla
Enjoy excursions to wineries and historic villages on Sunsail flotillas along the coast of Croatia. Sunsail

The Sunsail wine and culinary flotilla in Croatia, which combines tastings and samplings of local delicacies, returns in 2016.

Departures for each flotilla of up to 12 bareboats are available on June 4 and 11, 2016, as well as September 17 and 24.

Starting at the Sunsail base in Agana, near the town of Split, this tour takes sailors along the islands of the Dalmatian Coast. After each day of sailing, participants have the opportunity to visit local wineries. Fleets have 24/7 assistance of a lead crew with skipper, engineer and host to organize on-land excursions.

For more informaiton, visit the Sunail website at www.sunsail.com.

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