Refits and Upgrades

Total Refit of Our 40-Year-Old Stevens 47 Totem

What started as an engine replacement turned into long-envisioned upgrades and a total refit.

Sailing Totem: The 40-Year Refit

In the midst of our massive 40-year refit of our Stevens 47, Totem, we’re still dreaming: Do we want to make the changes needed to fly a Code Zero?

Upgrades for a Circumnavigation

Halfway through his latest circumnavigation, Webb Chiles made several upgrades to Gannet, his Moore 24, to make the rest of the journey safer and more comfortable.

Forward Cabin Makeover

Eager to get rid of dark wood and old vinyl, this do-it-yourselfer found a cleaner and brighter way to finish the v-berth.

More From Imtra

Giving the Lights an LED Makeover

IMTRA’s new Largo and ITS LED series offer a high-tech, affordable way to upgrade a boat’s lighting system

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New Two-wire Lighting Range Makes for Easy LED System Refits

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Two-wire LEDs is a Game-Changer

New two-wire lighting technology makes for easy LED system refits.

Better Boating Technology

Modern thruster and stabilizers transform the handling and performance of older yachts.

More Refits and Upgrades

Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat

Adding solar panels to your sailboat can keep your lights and appliances running without requiring the engine.

Quick Tips for Easy Living

A warm, well-lit, welcoming interior is the key to happiness after a long day at sea.

Preparing to Paint your Hull

When it comes to applying fresh paint, the three keys to success are the product, the preparation and the application.

Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging

Keep your sailboat’s mast securely in place by carefully inspecting all of your spar’s components and replacing parts before you have a breakdown.

How to Select a Marine Stove

Before you start shopping for a new oven or stove-top, consider meals you’re likely to prepare and the fuel you plan to use.

Let There Be Light

Refitting your yacht with the latest LED and light-fixture technology enhances the look and feel of your vessel. And it’s a great project for do-it-yourselfer.

The post Refits and Upgrades appeared first on Cruising World.

LEDs have become the new norm for boat lighting. Beyond significantly lowering heat output and power draw, the latest generation of LEDs also come with a wide range of designer fixtures and color combinations. Boat builders include LEDs as standard equipment, and a growing number of do-it-yourselfers are retrofitting older halogen or incandescent fixtures with the latest generation LED fixtures.

Imtra has been at the forefront of LED development for over 12 years. Its range of four-wire LED lights and fixtures are the systems of choice for many boaters and boat builders. Imtra’s new two-wire LED series represents another significant advance for both the professional boat builder and do-it-yourselfer. The company now offers 10, two-wire models, with four completely new trim ring designs.

“Ten years ago, most people we’d see at boat shows didn’t want to make the investment in LED lights,” says Colby Chevalier, Imtra’s lighting specialist. “Today’s boaters recognize the benefits of LED lighting and view LED fixture technology as another piece of essential electronics.”

The two-wire system is much easier to install than a traditional four-wire application. “In the past when a boat owner was performing a refit of the interior, running extra wires for dimming functionality was achievable, but not always convenient”; says Chevalier. “Most of our customers would prefer to simply replace the fixture and be able to use the existing wires for power (and dimming). The new 2-wire lights are super-retrofittable for the boat owner.”

The new series of light fixtures are designed to fit common hole cut-outs from legacy halogen lights, therefore preventing the need for inconvenient carpentry modifications in most cases. “The new light fixtures are fully sealed, IP65 rated and use the highest quality components to ensure longevity with the product backed by a 5-year warranty,” notes Chevalier. “Our products are all designed to perform flawlessly in the marine environment.”

The Wave is modeled after Imtra’s popular Ventura fixture and features a round bezel with slight beveled profile. The other new round design is the Blade which has a near zero slope and sits practically flat against the headliner. The Carve and Surf are the square shaped models. Surf contains stepped features giving it an artistic 3-dimensional façade. Carve is a traditional flat square design. “We created new trim ring profiles with our switching product line in mind as well,” says Chevalier. “The new Surf works well paired with our classic Vimar switching cover plates for example. The Surf and Carve models also complement other interior items like hard-edged tables or square drawer pulls and sinks to give the interior a modern, cohesive look.”

All four new lights have integrated, current-controlled drive circuitry, with spring mounting that require no screws. For screw-mount installs, the Tide, Pool, Ripple and Current models are available. The new models operate safely from 10-40VDC and are compatible with the company’s new single- and dual-channel PowerLED Controllers. The new LED fixtures offer bi-color dimming control with a single switch (when used with the dimmer control module). The lights are available in a variety of finishes and materials with custom finishes also available upon request.

Three single-color choices, warm, cool and neutral, are offered for specific areas of the boat. “We carefully select a color temperature to bring out the best features of fabrics, skin tones and wood grains,” says Chevalier. “Most boaters like to use warm for interiors and cool or neutral for exterior lighting. We’ve also expanded bi-colors to give owners more choices.” The bi-colors include the three primary white shades that can be paired with either red or blue, depending on the application.

“Our LEDs completely change the lighting experience, both in the quality of the lighting and styling,” says Chevalier. “The impact of installing the new lights is immediate, often looking like a complete refit. Most owners also love having lights that are significantly cooler to touch than their old halogens with the benefit of reducing loads on generators and air-conditioning systems aboard being quickly recognized.”

Going forward, two-wire technology will become standard on all Imtra’s LED systems. “We’ve been known for our reliable four-wire dimming system since we started with our first LED product in 2004,” says Chevalier. “Given the advantages for both the consumer and boat builder, we’re confident these new two-wire products will help our customers continue to improve their lighting experience aboard.”

The new two-wire lights will be shown at this fall’s boat shows.

For more information, go to www.imtra.com.

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During the winter and spring of 2015 and 2016, I completed a total refit of my Pearson 36, Snoek, so named after a saltwater fish indigenous to the waters off South Africa, where I was raised.

The first two articles dealt with an overview of the project and the revamped plumbing, respectively. Continuing on with more detail on specific areas of the boat, this month we’ll take a look at the new deck layout.

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The post Deck Upgrades appeared first on Cruising World.

The original saloon table on my Down East 45 schooner was a single heavy sheet of 3⁄4-inch-thick laminated plywood, 27 inches wide by 57 inches long. It was supported on two substantial aluminum pedestals locking into large, round collars screwed to the floor and table.

There were two annoying problems with this structure: It was permanently mounted on the port side of the saloon, so people sitting on the starboard settee couldn’t reach the table. It was also difficult to squeeze in and out of one end because the chart table bulkhead was in the way. It was a very large but also impractical table, so I decided to build myself a more versatile one that could seat more than just three people.

My new design would have a narrow, fixed center section, with hinged leaves on either side that swing up to reach either or both of the settees. This is hardly a unique concept, so why didn’t the original builders do it this way? To make it the right height for the settees, the table needed to be 27 inches high, but this meant the new leaves could not be more than 27 inches or they would catch on the floor when they were down. With both leaves open, this left a 13-inch space in the middle, which determined the width of the fixed section. The table would be 43 inches long to allow access on all sides.

Tabletop

I started with a 4-by-8-foot sheet of oak plywood from Lowe’s. The folks at the store cut this large, heavy sheet to my three panel sizes on their circular saw, which saved me a lot of time and enabled me to fit the pieces into my vehicle. I wanted rounded corners on all the pieces, so I traced around a tin lid to give me a radius, then cut the corners with a fine scrolling blade fitted in my jigsaw.

I decided to laminate the tabletops with a high-­pressure melamine laminate, similar to Formica, because it is both hard and scratch-­resistant. I found exactly what I was looking for on the Wilsonart website. It is a realistic-­looking teak-grained laminate called Nepal Teak in a high-gloss finish that looks just like real varnished teak. I special-­ordered a 4-by-8-foot sheet from Lowe’s. It is 3⁄64 inch thick, and I cut it to the approximate size of each table section using metal cutting shears, leaving about a 1⁄2-inch overhang on all sides. Then I glued them on the plywood using, Weldwood’s original contact cement, which is more liquid than the gel variety. I spread it on the plywood and laminate surfaces with a 6-inch roller, then waited for the glue to become tacky. When joining large surfaces of laminate with contact cement, you have to get it right on the first try because the cement bonds on contact and there is no wiggle room. I placed the laminate on my workbench with the glue side up, then laid two thin wooden battens on each end. I put the plywood on top, glue side down. The wood strips kept the two pieces apart while I positioned the plywood accurately above the laminate. It was then a simple matter to slide the battens out and press the plywood to the laminate. I then placed the board on some paper on the house floor and walked all over it in my deck shoes. This applied much more than the 75 pounds of pressure called for in the gluing instructions and firmly pressed the pieces together.

After leaving the three boards overnight for the glue to harden, I carefully trimmed the laminate flush with the edges of the boards, using a router with a vertical cutting bit and roller-bearing guide. This produced a sharp, straight edge to which I intended to fit teak trim all the way around.

Trim

I had some 1⁄2-inch-thick teak slats left over from a forward-­cabin rebuild that were just right to make the straight-edge trim for the panels. Of course, this was much too thick to bend around the corners, so I used my jigsaw to cut rounded trim from bits of solid teak I had saved from previous projects. All the trim had to be drilled and counterbored, then screwed and glued to the edges of the three boards. Then all the holes — 75 total — had to be plugged and sanded.

I decided to make fixed fiddles on the center section because the things that invariably get placed there are liable to slide off when the boat rocks — even in a marina. I cut strips to length and beveled and rounded the tops, then shaped both ends in a graceful swan’s-neck curve to join the corner trim. I left the corners open to enable the table to be wiped, and to add a bit of decorative accent.

An unusual stumbling block I didn’t anticipate was keeping track of all the pieces of trim that had been shaped to match the individual edges and corners. I made 12 corner pieces, four edging strips for fiddles and eight other edging trims. All were slightly different, because this table was nothing if not “handcrafted.”

I hinged the table’s leaves using six stainless-steel sliding pull-apart hinges — three on each leaf. These allow the leaves to be easily detached from the center section when necessary, such as to access the floorboards.

Supports

The mainmast compression post on my schooner is a 4-inch square post passing through the saloon to the keelson, and it offered a perfect support for one end of the table’s center section. I used a 4-inch brass-plated butt hinge to support that end of the table, screwing one half of the hinge to the compression post with a teak block spacer and the other to the underside of the table. The spacer is important because it enables the center section of the table to hinge up and hang with a strop to a deck beam when I need access to the floorboards. This attachment method also allows me to remove the table completely by simply knocking the hinge pin out, separating the two halves of the hinge.

To support the other end of the table, I shaped a leg out of plywood. I attached it at the top with a short piano hinge that allows the leg to fold flat to the underside of the center section of the table whenever it’s lifted to get to the floorboards. I secured the bottom of the leg with two pins that drop into flanged bushings I set in the floor. I made the pins by screwing 1⁄4-inch-diameter stainless wood screws into the bottom of the support, then hack-sawing the heads off and rounding them with a file. To support the table’s leaves, I bought two attractive turned-wood table legs, grandly termed “early American table legs,” from Lowe’s. I fastened the top of each leg to the center of the leaf edge’s underside, using a small brass hinge, so when not in use, each leg folds to the inside of the leaf, where it is held by a plastic C-clip. I screwed 1⁄4-inch-diameter pins in the bottom of each leg, which drop into bronze flange bushings I sunk into the floor. This simple yet secure support for the table leaves is much stronger than center-­section supports like those I have had on other boats, which nearly always allow the leaves to sag. I also bought two brass barrel-bolt latches, which I screwed to each leaf. The bolts drop into flanged bushings set in the floor and stop the leaves from swinging about in the folded-­down position when the boat heels.

I stained the plywood on the underside of the panels and the table legs with teak stain, which, when rubbed with a rag, made the wood look amazingly like the shade of real teak. I bought a quart of the stain, called 120 Teak Natural and made by Zar, from a local hardware store. When all the woodwork was complete, I varnished it with two coats of Epifanes high-gloss wood varnish. The result is that it’s difficult to distinguish between the real teak trim and the laminate.

When both leaves are extended, the new table is more than twice the size of the old one and looks positively baronial. More important, it is much more functional because it easily seats six and allows access all around, yet when the leaves are down it is smaller than the original.

Roger Hughes is nearing the completion of a six-year project restoring his Down East 45, Britannia. For more on the restoration, visit his website www.schooner-britannia.com.

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During our nearly four-year cruise of Mexico, my husband, Mark, and I lived almost exclusively on 555 watts of solar power charging a 640-amp-hour house battery bank. We anchored out virtually every night aboard our 2008 Hunter 44DS, Groovy, and relied on the sun for power. During one 10-week stretch, while we waited for a replacement engine alternator to arrive, our boat’s solar panels were our sole source of power. We had no backup charging system to turn to, and yet we lived and sailed comfortably the entire time. Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were.

A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Similar to a voltage regulator, the charge controller acts as a gatekeeper to protect the batteries from receiving more current than they need as they are being charged. In the AC power system, an inverter or inverter/charger converts the 12-volt DC power in the battery into 120 volts AC whenever it is turned on.

Panel Positioning and Wiring Considerations

One of the biggest challenges for sailors installing solar power on a sailboat is finding a place on the boat where the panels will be shaded as little as possible. Just a few square inches of shade on one panel can render that panel all but inoperable. Unfortunately, between the mast, radome, spreaders and boom, shadows cross the deck all day long, especially as the boat swings back and forth at anchor.

What’s worse, if the panels are wired in series rather than in parallel, this little bit of shade can shut down the entire solar-panel array. When we installed solar power on Groovy, we had already lived exclusively on solar power in an RV for over two years. Our RV solar panels had been wired in series, and we had witnessed the array shutting down current production when just half of one panel was shaded.

Choosing whether to wire the panels in series or parallel on a boat affects the wire gauge required, which is why many solar-power installers lean toward wiring the panels in series. Panels wired in series can be wired all the way to the solar charge controller with a thinner-gauge wire than those wired in parallel. This is because the voltage of panels wired in series is additive, while the current remains constant, so the current flowing is just that of a single panel. In contrast, the current flowing from panels that are wired in parallel is additive, while the voltage across them is not. This means that in a parallel installation, the current going to the charge controller is several times higher and requires much thicker cable to avoid any voltage loss over the length of the wire.

Not only is thinner-gauge wire less expensive, but it is also more supple and easier to work with, making the job of snaking it in and around various crevices in the boat and connecting it to the solar charge controller much less of a struggle. Thus the choice between series and parallel wiring boils down to a trade-off between system performance, expense and ease of solar system installation.

Luckily, the size of the wire can be reduced if higher-­voltage solar panels are chosen. Since watts are determined by multiplying volts by amps, a higher-voltage panel that generates the same watts as a lower-voltage panel will produce less current. Therefore, selecting nominal 24-volt panels instead of 12-volt panels allows for the use of thinner wire sizes no matter how they are wired.

Our Marine Solar Panel Design Choices

In our installation, we decided to mount three 185-watt, 24-volt (nominal) Kyocera solar panels high above the cockpit, well aft of the boom, as far away as possible from potential shade. Our Hunter came with a big, solid stainless-steel arch, and we turned to Alejandro Ulloa, a brilliant metal fabricator at Baja Naval Boatyard in Ensenada, Mexico, to build a polished stainless-steel solar-panel arch extension onto the existing structure. He designed the arch extension with integrated telescoping davits to hoist our dinghy as well as support the solar panels. These davits were strong enough — and the lines and blocks had enough purchase — that either of us could lift our light Porta-Bote dinghy with its 6-horsepower outboard without a winch.

We spaced the panels about a half-inch apart and wired them in parallel. Using two twin-lead wires, we snaked the three positive leads and one common ground down through the inside of the arch tubes so they wouldn’t be visible, and placed wire loom over the exposed wires under the panels.

The junction points for the three parallel panels were on positive and negative bus bars inside a combiner box, all mounted in a cockpit lazarette. Inside the combiner box, we installed three breakers, one for each panel. This gave us the ability to shut off any or all of the panels if we needed to (we never did).

We mounted a Xantrex solar charge controller (model XW MPPT 60-150) in a hanging locker, as close to the batteries as possible, in a spot where it was easy to monitor and program. We ran twin-lead wire from the combiner box to the charge controller and from there to the batteries.

Our boat came with three new 12-volt Mastervolt 4D AGM house batteries, all wired in parallel, for a total of 480 amp-hours of capacity. We wanted a bigger house battery bank, and because it is best for the age, type and size of the batteries to be matched, we added a fourth new Mastervolt 4D AGM house battery, which brought our total to 640 amp-hours. Our batteries were installed at the lowest point in the hull, below the floorboards, and they ran the length of the saloon, from just forward of the companionway stairs to just aft of the V-berth stateroom door.

The best way to charge a bank of batteries that are wired in parallel is to span the entire battery bank with the leads coming from the charge controller. We did this by connecting the positive lead from the charge controller to the positive terminal of the first battery in the bank, and the negative lead from the charge controller to the negative terminal of the last battery. By spanning the entire bank, the batteries were charged equally rather than having the charging current focused on just the first battery in the bank.

We feel that AGM batteries are superior to wet cell (flooded) batteries because they can be installed in any orientation, don’t require maintenance, can’t spill (even in a capsize), and charge more quickly. Our Mastervolt batteries, like almost all AGM batteries on the market, are dual-purpose, combining the very different characteristics of both deep-cycle and start batteries. Our batteries work well, but if we were doing an installation from scratch today, we would consider the new Trojan Reliant AGM batteries. These batteries are engineered strictly for deep-cycle use and have been optimized to provide consistent current and maximize battery life.

Our boat came with a Xantrex Freedom 2,500-watt inverter/charger wired into the boat’s AC wiring system with a transfer switch. The inverter/charger performed two functions. While the boat was disconnected from shore power, it converted the batteries’ 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power, allowing us to operate 120-volt appliances, like our microwave. When the boat was connected to shore power, it charged the batteries.

Because this inverter/charger was a modified-sine-wave inverter, mimicking AC ­current with a stair-stepped square wave, we also had a 600-watt pure-sine-wave inverter to power our potentially more sensitive electronic devices. We chose Exeltech because its inverters produce an electrical signal that is clean enough to power medical equipment, and they are NASA’s choice for both the Russian and American sides of the International Space Station. For simplicity, rather than wiring the inverter into the cabin’s AC wiring, we plugged ordinary household power strips into the AC outlets on the inverter and plugged our appliances into the power strips. Like the charge controller, the inverter must be located as close to the batteries as possible. Ours was under a settee.

Shade’s Impact on Sailboat Solar Panels

Once our solar installation was completed on our sailboat, we closely observed the effects of shade on our solar-panel array. We were often anchored in an orientation that put the panels in full sun. Just as often, however, we were angled in such a way that shade from the mast and boom covered portions of our panels. It was fascinating to monitor the solar charge controller’s LCD display whenever the sun was forward of the beam — the current from the panels to the batteries fluctuated up and down as we swung at anchor.

Taking notes one morning, we noticed that the charging current was repeatedly creeping up and down between 9.5 and 24.5 amps as the boat moved to and fro. When the entire solar-panel array was in full sun, it generated 24.5 amps of current. When we moved so the mast shaded a portion of one panel, the array generated 15 amps. When it shaded portions of two panels and only one was in full sun, the array produced just 9.5 amps. Of course, it would have been preferable to see a steady 24.5 amps all morning, but this sure beat watching the current drop to zero whenever a shadow crossed a panel.

We discovered that shade makes a huge impact while sailing, too. Surprisingly, it is far worse to have the panels shaded by the sails than to have the panels in full sun but tilted away from its direct rays. One afternoon, we noticed that while we were on a tack that tilted the panels away from the sun, they generated 24.5 amps of current, whereas on a tack where the panels were tilted toward the sun but two of the three were partially shaded by the sails, the current dropped to a mere 10 amps.

Reflections On Our Solar Panel Installation

A wonderful and surprising side benefit of our large solar panels and arch system was that the setup created fabulous shade over the jumpseats at the stern end of the cockpit. Our metal fabricator, Alejandro, placed a support strut at hand-holding height, and sitting in those seats feels secure and comfortable while sailing, no matter the conditions.

After living on solar power for eight years of cruising and land-yacht travel, we’ve learned that you can never have too much solar power. Groovy’s 555 watts was enough to run all our household appliances as needed, including our nearly 4-cubic-foot DC refrigerator, two laptops, a TV/DVD player, and lights at night. However, it was not quite enough power to run all that plus our stand-alone 2.5-cubic-foot DC freezer during the short days and low sun angles of the winter months without supplemental charging from the engine alternator every few days. For the 10 weeks that we did not have a functioning alternator, our solution was to turn off the freezer, which enabled our batteries to reach full charge every afternoon.

Solar power made a world of difference in our cruise. Not only did it allow us to live comfortably and with ample electricity for weeks on end when our engine alternator went on the blink, but as a “set-it-and-forget-it” system, it also gave us the freedom to anchor out for as long as we wished without worrying about the batteries. In our eyes, the solar-panel arch enhanced the beauty and lines of our boat, giving her a sleek and clean appearance. It was true icing on the cake to discover that the panels and arch system also provided much-needed shade over the cockpit and helm from the hot tropical sunshine. If you are preparing for a cruise, consider turning to the sun for electricity and outfitting your sailboat with solar power.

The Installation:

Emily and Mark Fagan offer cruising tips and share their stories and photos on their website, roadslesstraveled.us. They are currently enjoying a land cruise across America aboard an RV.

The post Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat appeared first on Cruising World.

After a day on the water, nothing beats relaxing down below, whether for a meal, drinks with friends, or cozying up with a good book in your bunk. To this end, you want warmth and good ventilation, well-placed lighting, and perhaps a high-quality set of speakers for tunes during sundowners.

Climate Control

What you need to stay comfortable aboard depends on your planned destinations, the size of your boat, and your cruising style. Looking to venture to higher latitudes? You will want a robust cabin heater, such as a hydronic system from Webasto, which can heat the entire boat and your hot-water tank too. If you’re staying in more temperate areas, a bulkhead-mounted unit like those offered by Sig or Dickinson may suit your needs. And for tropical cruising, particularly if you’re planning to spend some time in marinas (or have a robust genset), an air-­conditioning unit will be ­welcome on humid nights.

Lighting

Decent lighting can completely change the atmosphere aboard. Modern LED lights, such as those from Imtra and Hella, are much more energy-efficient than their incandescent or halogen counter­parts and come in a range of colors. With a dimmer switch installed, it’s easy to go from light that’s bright enough to work and read by to a warm glow during dinner. White LED lights are rated by the “temperature” of the color in degrees Kelvin. Choose from the warmer end (around 2800K) for interior lights and cooler tones (6400K) for exterior lights.

Ventilation

No one likes a stuffy boat. Airflow is key not only for ­comfort in the cabin, but ­also for keeping mold and that dreaded “boat smell” at bay. To get air, your boat needs ­adequate hatches and opening ports, dorades or solar vents, and several fans throughout the cabins, heads and saloon.

Music

Long gone are the days when you needed to keep a CD collection aboard to have tunes while hosting friends. Between stored digital music files, satellite radio and online streaming services, an onboard music collection can be almost limitless. You can keep it simple with one of the many portable Bluetooth speakers that are available, or you can install a complete system. With a “black-box” unit from Simrad called the ­SonicHub, all controls are handled on a compatible display, so you can even do away with a traditional stereo face.

The Fusion StereoActive is a cool portable Bluetooth ­speaker that is made for the life ­aquatic. Not only is it water-resistant to IPX7 standards, but it also floats, has premium sound, and can be securely attached in your cockpit, on the dinghy or even on a paddleboard. There is a secure space for a flash drive to play digital music files, or you can pair a device and stream music. Don’t want to stream tunes? The ­Stereo­Active also has an AM/FM and marine weather receiver.

The post Quick Tips for Easy Living appeared first on Cruising World.

Hardly a month goes by that I don’t have a paintbrush in my hand. Whether it’s the house, barn, car or motorcycle, it seems something always needs painting. For boat owners, that’s especially true. In preparation for writing this piece, I took stock of my paint arsenal. The roundup: 32 cans of various brush-on paints, coatings and varnishes; 19 cans of spray paint; and 44 brushes, ranging from broad house-­painter’s specials and my beloved badger-­hair varnish brushes to pinpoint artist’s brushes and the throwaway foam variety. I like painting, but more importantly, I want to be satisfied with and proud of the paint projects I undertake. Success often boils down to three things: choosing the right paint for the job, good preparation and solid application technique.

Paint Type

For the purposes of this article, the focus will be brush-on paint jobs that are applicable to a range of do-it-yourself skills.

Enamel-based paint is among the most popular of brush-on coatings; however, its name is misleading, as it has little to do with the familiar baked-on enamel coatings. These paints are typically single-­part oil-based products that don’t require a catalyst or the mixing of two components. Instead, a solvent is used as the vehicle that allows the paint to be applied as a liquid, after which the solvent evaporates, leaving behind a relatively hard, durable, ­enamellike finish.

Enamel paints are by far the easiest of all common marine paints to apply; they flow easily and are often thick enough to fill in small surface imperfections. Their fumes are typically tolerable. If thinning is necessary, that’s easy too: Simply use whatever is recommended by the paint’s manufacturer, often lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Cleanup is also straight­forward; again, common thinner or mineral spirits are all that’s required.

Enamel paints can be applied to virtually any surface — wood, fiberglass or metal — provided that proper preparation is carried out. A high-quality enamel paint is the least expensive of the brush-on options, but the price you pay for all of these attributes is offset by enamel’s moderate longevity and gloss retention. Think of it this way: Under harsh marine conditions (sun, salt and varying temperatures), depending on the latitude and climate, a good-quality enamel paint can be expected to hold up for three to five years. So give careful consideration to where this paint is used, because chances are high you’ll be reapplying it every few years.

Two-part paints (sometimes called two-packs) are vastly different from their distant enamel cousins. The most common varieties utilize a polyester-based linear polyurethane (LPU) formula. Rather than relying on a thinning agent or vehicle that evaporates and allows the pigmented base to harden, two-part LPU paints ­utilize a process not dissimilar from that of fiberglass resin and gelcoat, whereby a catalyzing agent reacts with a base resin, causing a ­molecular cross-linking to occur. The result is a hard, ultradurable, abrasion-­resistant plasticlike coating that retains its gloss many times longer than does standard single-­part enamel paint.

Here too, however, there are trade-offs. LPU paints are more difficult to apply (some versions use an acrylic base that can only be sprayed). They tend to magnify every imperfection, making meticulous preparation all the more important. Those applying them must take special precautions to prevent skin contact, and a respirator is required (safety glasses should also be used when applying any marine paint).

Additionally, in my experience, two-part paints are ill suited to application over wood. The expansion and contraction caused by varying moisture content can wreak havoc on two-part paint’s hard consistency, leading to cracking, water migration and release. (To some extent, the same fate may befall enamel paint. However, it’s far easier to repair and less expensive, and its life expectancy is admittedly shorter, making failure somewhat expected rather than a heartache and wallet-buster.)
Two-part paints fall squarely into the advanced DIY and professional category; not surprisingly, they cost more than single-part enamel paints. But based on their extended longevity, which could be a decade or more, the added expense can be amortized over time, ultimately making it more economical and the logical choice for painting fiberglass hulls and decks.

Somewhere between conventional enamel and linear polyurethane lies a hybrid option, often referred to as a modified urethane enamel. A single-part paint that embodies attributes from both camps — including extended durability and ease of application — it’s often a reasonable compromise for those who lack the skill or willingness to work with two-part paints but desire some degree of added longevity, once again with an increase in cost.

Preparation and Application

What do you intend to paint, and what is its condition? The answers to those questions drive some element of the preparation process. Wood, steel, aluminum, gelcoat or an existing coating each requires a different type of preparation (and more detail than can be covered here). Fortunately, paint manufacturers want satisfied customers and go to great lengths to provide detailed instructions for both preparation and application for all types of surfaces. Before picking up a brush or stirrer, read the literature provided by the manufacturer of the paint you are preparing to use.

In general, though, begin by cleaning the surface and removing all traces of dirt, debris, dust, previous loose coatings and, above all else, wax and oil. Where failed paint applications are concerned, the latter two contaminants are likely the most culpable; they steadfastly repel coatings, leaving behind the dreaded “fish eye,” a small oval “paint desert” that’s guaranteed to ruin any painter’s day.

Surfaces should be washed with fresh, soft water and mild detergent (detergent and diluted ammonia is an effective cleaning agent, and bleach should be used if mildew is present, but never mix the two). Next, de-wax the surface using a clean rag that has been rinsed in fresh water to remove any trace of detergent or surfactant, allow it to dry, and then dampen it with solvent such as denatured alcohol (again, following the paint manufacturer’s instructions) or mineral spirits. The rag should be frequently turned to expose a new face and discarded as soon as it’s completely soiled.

A tack rag, a proprietary product that looks and feels like a slightly sticky gauze bandage, should then be used to wipe down the entire surface to remove all traces of dust. Some applicators use compressed air to blow dust off the surface. But beware: Compressors can contaminate the air supply with trace amounts of oil, which, as ­mentioned above, can wreak havoc on a finish. Compressed-air oil filters are available and should be used if you intend to blow off a surface at any point during the painting process.

An adhesion test should be carried out before applying two-part paint over an existing two-part coating. Nobody wants to expend significant effort to apply as perfect a finish as possible, only to have the original coating release from the substrate, which often occurs when masking tape is removed. A visual inspection will be your first indicator; if paint is flaking in any way, then it probably should be condemned.

The next test is more definitive and should be carried out after cleaning and de-waxing. Deeply score the surface (down to the substrate) with a sharp razor blade in a small checkerboard pattern (six vertical and six horizontal lines, approximately 2 inches square). Apply filament-type packing tape diagonally across the box, and then abruptly yank it off parallel to the surface. If any of the squares remain stuck to the tape, the test has failed, and all of the existing paint down to the sound substrate or the virgin surface should be removed.

If the coating passes the initial tests, the next evaluation involves solvent compatibility to ensure the new paint does not cause an adverse reaction by lifting, bubbling and so on. Saturate a cotton ball with the reducer that will be used to thin the applicable paint, apply the cotton to the scribed area, tape it in place, and leave it for 30 minutes. Remove the cotton. If the reducer dissolves or markedly softens the existing coating, all of the paint must be removed before the new two-part paint is applied.

Paint primer — the coating applied after the surface has been prepared but before applying a final or topcoat — is a science unto itself. Primers primarily fall into two categories: oil or enamel, and epoxy-based. The overarching rule where primer is concerned is compatibility with both the surface over which it is applied and, most importantly, with the topcoat that will be applied over it. With very rare exceptions, primer should be sourced from the same manufacturer as the topcoat, and even in those instances, you must still ensure compatibility.

Epoxy has a reputation for adhering tenaciously to virtually anything except oil and wax. It has poor UV resistance, which makes it ideally suited as a primer, as the topcoat will cover and protect it from the sun’s damaging rays. Most epoxy primers are two-part, adding complexity to the application process; they remain the primer of choice, however, particularly with two-part topcoats.

While it’s not absolutely necessary to use a primer for every paint application, you should once again defer to the coating manufacturer’s instructions. Most paint companies recommend the use of a primer for virgin wood, gelcoat, fiberglass and bare metal. The latter typically requires what’s known as an etching primer; it’s slightly acidic and primes the surface as well as chemically profiling it, improving adhesion.

Nearly all paint manufacturers also establish protocols regarding temperature, prohibiting application if the air or substrate temperature is too low (40 degrees F is a typical low threshold). All LPU and many enamel paints cannot be used in areas where they will be continually submerged, such as below the waterline or in wet bilges. Doing so will result in osmotic plastering and general adhesion failure. For those applications, an epoxy-based paint, ideally one designed especially for bilges, should be used.

The Painter’s Tools

Quality hand tools, sockets, wrenches, cutters and strippers make engine and electrical work go more smoothly and yield professional results, and the same can be said of paintbrushes. Walk into any chandlery, and it’s easy to be confused by the selection: synthetic versus natural fiber; square, angled, chiseled (or not); and round or paddle handles.

Where enamel and two-part topcoats are concerned, my preference is for natural-­bristle brushes with a chisel-shaped tip. Unlike synthetic fibers, which can melt if exposed to the wrong materials, natural bristles are immune to solvents, acids and other chemicals. Synthetic-fiber brushes are typically used with water-based paints, where natural bristles become sodden and perform poorly. The chisel-shaped tip (as opposed to a round tip) is designed to leave behind a smooth finish while minimizing stroke marks.

Natural brushes are frequently known as “China bristle” because the vast majority are made from Chinese hog hair. These have a desirable feature known as a “flagged tip”; a bit like a human hair’s split ends, these tips are flatter and wider than the remainder of the bristle, helping them retain more paint. The brush cross-­section should be oval; it too retains more paint and is well suited to broad application surfaces. Make certain that the brush’s ferrule — the metal band that retains bristles — is tight and made of stainless steel. Quality brushes should rarely shed. Inexpensive, disposable China-bristle brushes, often known as “chip brushes,” are fine for bottom paint or other nontopcoat applications, but they are notorious for dropping bristles.

If you seek the highest possible quality for your brushes, and the finish they deliver, then move up to ox and badger hair. The latter is my preference for varnishing and when “rolling and tipping” — the practice of applying paint first with a roller and then brushing it out, a commonly used technique for two-part paint applications on hulls and other large surfaces. These natural-bristle brushes yield the smoothest flow and hold paint exceptionally well. Rollers, if used for rolling and tipping, must of course be compatible with the paint, and must be of the short-nap variety to minimize irregularity in the coating application.

Paint is an area where a do-it-yourselfer can achieve high-quality results, provided he or she follows the aforementioned tips as well as the coating manufac­turer’s instructions. Practice, of course, is always recommended; the more time you spend with a brush in hand, the better the results.

Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting ­(stevedmarineconsulting.com).

The post Preparing to Paint your Hull appeared first on Cruising World.

Whether you’re buying a used sailboat that’s new to you or you’ve owned your boat for decades, the standing rigging is what keeps the mast in place, and thus requires particular attention. How do you know when it’s time to re-rig? There are some obvious answers to this one — for instance, if your wire rigging has broken strands or if it’s suffering from “candy-striping,” i.e., rust-colored streaks swirling down the wire. The latter may indicate two things: one, that it’s simply surface rust, which you should be able to polish off, or two, that as the wire was being manufactured, a strand might have picked up some contamination during the process and is compromised, which is cause for concern. A third visual indicator are cracks in swaged fittings, some of the most common end fittings for wire. Cracks are hard to see (use a magnifying glass), and sometimes marks that look like cracks can be left by the machine used to create the swage. Then there’s just age, and this factor as a reason to re-rig is more subject to a boat’s history than anything else.

“There’s a rule of thumb, but it varies rigger to rigger,” says Steve Madden, co-owner of M Yacht Services in Annapolis and the head of its M Rigging division. “My belief is that you should be replacing your sailboat’s standing rigging every 10 to 15 years.” But this time frame also is variable, depending on the boat’s purpose and use. For instance, for an offshore bluewater boat, Madden recommends 10 years, and for a serious coastal cruiser, more like 12.

“The biggest thing we like to have is the history of the boat: what kind of boat it is, how it’s been sailed and where has it been sailed,” says Jay Herman, owner of Annapolis Rigging. “That history will affect what kind of life you get out of your standing rigging.” Some insurance companies, he says, will require a re-rig if you’re purchasing a used boat that has standing rigging older than 15 years.

Either way, Jimmie Cockerill, co-owner of the Rigging Company in Annapolis, recommends that for a sailboat with wire rigging, the mast should be pulled and all fittings and wire visually inspected every five to six years. And although rod rigging may be able to last longer than wire, it too needs to be serviced every five to six years to get the most life out of it. Sticking to the 10-year rule, Madden says, means that for the most part, any corrosion or failure points will be eliminated with a re-rig.

How the rigging has been tuned is also part of a boat’s story. For instance, Madden says, he recently had a customer whose 46-foot cutter had a rigging failure at six years. The customer had had the boat re-rigged, and during a trip to the BVI, the new wire stretched. The owner didn’t adjust the rigging to compensate for the stretch for several seasons. “That was a case of not knowing that the worst thing you can do to standing rigging is have it loose on the leeward side,” he says. “Sailboat rigging very rarely fails from being overloaded. There’s such a safety margin in rigging. So you’re sailing offshore and you’re looking at the windward shroud that’s taut, and that’s not the one to worry about. It’s when the leeward side starts flopping around that you’re asking for trouble.”

Stainless steel has a finite number of cycles — essentially, movements, whether fore and aft or side to side. “The theory is that it can take 10 to 15 years of cycling, but this continual motion when it’s unloaded is what fatigues the wire,” Madden says. “There’s no real way of measuring that. Die testing won’t pick it up, and it’s rare that a wire will give you warning before breaking.”

So how often should standing rigging be replaced? For all of these reasons, most riggers agree that when your sailboat’s standing rigging approaches 15 years old, it’s a good time to consider replacing it.

Wire or Rod Sailboat Rigging?

Riggers say the question of whether to rig with wire or rod is usually fairly easily answered: Run what you brung. In other words, if your boat already has rod rigging, with all of the end fittings to terminate the rods both on deck and in or on the mast, then sticking with rod will ultimately be less expensive than making the switch to wire. Likewise, if you already have wire with fittings that accommodate your boat and mast, stick with wire. Aside from the relative cost differences between rod and wire (rod is more expensive), what also makes a switch pricey is having to significantly modify the mast to accept the different rigging.

Although rod rigging is more common on racing boats, many well-known cruising-boat builders, such as Valiant, Bristol, J/Boats and Hinckley, have rod-rigged models. The benefits of rod are less stretch, less weight, less windage, and arguably longer life than wire, because there’s less possibility for corrosion of the rod itself.

That said, some sailors prefer wire over rod for a number of reasons. First, it’s easier to fix in remote places and on your own. With a spare mechanical end fitting, wire and the proper tools, you can replace a stay pretty much anywhere. Similarly, it’s easier to find usable replacement parts far from busy ports. Wire rigging is generally less expensive and easier to handle. Finally, rod rigging requires a particular type of terminus — called a cold head — that can be fabricated only with a purpose-built machine, which only a rigging shop will have. You cannot use a mechanical fitting on rod rigging.

In the past, long-distance cruisers typically chose wire rigging with mechanical fittings for all of these reasons. They also would carry a piece of wire as long as the longest stay on the boat — coiled and stowed, which undeniably was sometimes easier said than done — as well as spare end fittings and the tools needed to replace a broken shroud or stay. Today, with the advent of super-strong synthetic line such as AmSteel and Dyneema, the need for that extra wire and gear is eliminated. For instance, the Rigging Company makes a spare-stay kit that can accommodate either wire or rod rigging repairs, Cockerill says. It has a synthetic stay with an eye splice, a toolless turnbuckle (the Handy Lock, made by C. Sherman Johnson), quick-release fast pins with an attached lanyard, several high-strength Dyneema loops, and even a heavy-duty zip tie to fish loops in and out of holes in a mast.

“The idea is you come on deck with this small canvas bag and make it happen,” Cockerill says. “Let’s say you ripped a tang out of the mast; you can use a Dyneema loop to create another attachment point. A smaller loop is a makeshift chainplate attachment — you can attach it to a neighboring chainplate and attach the stay to it. It’s good enough to get you to safety and someplace you can make a more permanent repair.” Riggers say very few sailors re-rig from wire to rod or the reverse, but if switching is on your mind, have a professional make a full assessment first.

There are so many variables in the system — types of end fittings, types of masts, types of attachment points — that each boat will have its own specific requirements that can affect cost. For that reason, it’s difficult to give an accurate estimate of the cost of making the switch, even for an average 40-footer.

End Fittings for Sailboat Rigging

All standing rigging, whether rod or wire, has to end in a fitting that attaches to the deck and mast. The three most commonly used types of attachments are swaged and mechanical fittings for wire, and cold heads for rod. Generally, end fittings fall into a few classes: studs, eyes, forks and hooks, each of which comes in a dizzying array of sizes and configurations. There are multiple combinations and variations: For instance, if your mast has double tangs, most likely the end fitting will be an eye — although it can be a marine eye or an aircraft eye, which differ primarily in shape. All rod rigging terminates in a cold head, which accommodates the end fitting or is encapsulated by the end fitting. This could be a marine eye, a marine fork, a T-head or a J-hook, among others.

A swaged fitting is a terminus that’s attached using a machine called a swager. It rolls the end fitting through two opposing dies and compresses the fitting on the wire so tightly that it can’t pull out. “The theory is that you’ve crushed it so tightly that all the wires inside have just merged into one solid piece of stainless,” Madden says. Swaging must be professionally done, and the result is extremely strong and generally has a long life. Top manufacturers of swaged fittings are Hayn Marine Rigging Products, Alexander Roberts and C. Sherman Johnson.

Mechanical fittings can be applied using a few common hand tools by the mechanically handy DIY sailor, which is one reason they’re popular. The two primary manufacturers of mechanical fittings presently are Sta-Lok and Petersen Stainless, which produces Hi-MOD. Both are located in the U.K., and the products are distributed in the U.S. through vendors like Hayn, West Marine, Defender, and local chandleries and riggers. Generally, they consist of either three or four parts (Sta-Lok has three; Hi-MOD has four), including a sleeve; a cone; in Hi-MOD’s case, a crown wheel; and the terminal (an eye, fork, stud, etc.). If you follow directions, they are fairly straightforward to install, although not especially easy. “The mechanical fasteners are great in that you can terminate and then look inside to be sure it’s formed correctly, so you do have a way of inspecting your work,” Madden says.

However, they generally cost more than a swaged fitting; Herman says while Hi-MOD’s newer mechanical fittings are “definitely more user-friendly to assemble, they’re twice the cost of a swaged fitting.” Some riggers will recommend swaged fittings for the mast end of the rigging and mechanical fittings at the deck level: Corrosion is less prevalent at the top of the mast, and you can more easily and regularly inspect mechanical fittings at deck level, where they’re frequently subjected to salt water

Should You Replace Your Sailboat’s Rigging Yourself?

So you’ve determined your sailboat’s standing rigging needs work. Do you hire a pro or go it alone? Good question. Yes, doing it yourself will theoretically save money. For an average 40-foot boat, Cockerill estimates about $100 per foot to re-rig with wire rigging ($4,000), as well as the round-trip cost to haul and launch the boat and unstep and step the rig (an additional $2,500 or so). By taking on the labor yourself, you’ll probably save as much as $2,000 on the re-rigging cost, he says. Madden says that cost isn’t linear, though; as you go up in size (a bigger boat needs heavier wire and larger fittings), you’ll spend more. He’d estimate more like $4,600 for a 40-foot boat, but all of these numbers depend on how much is involved: Are there furlers? What kind of end fittings? Are the chainplates sound? Depending on the answers to those questions and others, a professionally done re-rig for a 40-footer could be closer to $6,000 or more.

If you go DIY, you will be limited to mechanical end fittings unless you hire a rigger to swage your end fittings. The Rigging Company gears much of its sales to DIY sailors and is beginning an e-commerce site to cater specifically to handy individuals. But Cockerill says it quickly becomes evident whether an owner feels comfortable enough to do the work. “You should be mechanically inclined,” he says, “and the way to find that out is if I start talking all this technical jargon and you decide whether you’re suited to handle that at all.”

Additionally, a DIY sailor needs to do plenty of research, particularly when it comes to wire quality, which is something professional sailboat rigging companies watch like hawks. Although anyone can walk into a local chandlery and buy wire, that doesn’t mean the wire is of the highest quality. Marine-suitable stainless wire is called 316 grade, but even that doesn’t mean you’re necessarily getting high-quality wire. Much depends on where it is manufactured; Herman and other riggers say the best wire today is coming from South Korea through a manufacturer called KOS, making wire to military specifications. It’s imported and sold through distributors like Alps Wire Rope.

“We only sell guaranteed-content, guaranteed-process wire,” Herman says. “There are other wires out there that are cheaper, but they’re not guaranteed.”

As for sources of wire and fittings, there are many, including major chandleries and vendors, like West Marine and Defender, as well as some private riggers, like Annapolis Rigging and the Rigging Company, which will work with you to define what you need and help you source parts and materials.

One thing all the riggers I spoke with expressed emphatically was that stainless steel needs oxygen to create a fine film of oxidation that protects the metal. The fastest route to crevice corrosion is to cover the metal with plastic or leather turnbuckle covers or to coat the fittings in tape. Enough tape to cover a cotter pin suffices; otherwise, leave the metal open to the air. Likewise, if you are re-rigging your sailboatboat, use the opportunity to check your chainplates (easily the subject of another article entirely), since that’s one of the most common points of rigging failure.

Another factor in your DIY decision-making process is simple: peace of mind. “Most of my clients say to me without any prompting, ‘This is one area I feel should be done by a professional,’’’ Madden says. “You’re out there offshore and there’s a squall coming and you start worrying about the craziest of things, and you don’t want to have any unknowns.” That’s especially true of the system that keeps the mast and sails up.

Wendy Mitman Clarke is currently between passages. She’s the director of media relations at Washington College in Chestertown, Maryland, and she and her family continue to pine and plan for the day they can return to the cruising life.

The post Replacing Your Sailboat Rigging appeared first on Cruising World.

The new technology and fresh designs of the Side-Power systems deliver improved maneuverability, greater comfort, and superb performance.

Twenty years ago, bow thrusters were wish-list options. Now, they’re standard equipment on most new motor and sail boats. The refit market has also seen gains in thruster installations, mainly from owners upgrading older one-speed thrusters to new proportional control models.

Side-Power, which designs and builds about 160 thruster options, has been making marine equipment since 1908. Its thrusters have been market-share leaders for years. “Side-Power has been making proportionately controlled DC thrusters for a long time,” says Prentice Weathers, a Side-Power specialist at Imtra, the U.S. distributor of its thrusters and stabilizers. “But refitting a proportional thruster to older on/off systems is a relatively new trend among boat owners.”

Many yacht owners are discovering the advantages of proportional control as they upgrade from older systems. “Proportional gives you full control of the thruster’s speed as opposed to on-off, which offers full speed or nothing,” says Weathers. “The proportional thrusters tend to have much longer run times. They’re also much quieter.”

Imtra helps owners find the right-sized thruster through drawings of their motoryachts and sailboats. “We calculate how much force the thruster needs to overcome the wind on the boat,” says Weathers. “Side-Power rates thrusters by how many pounds of thrust they produce so it’s a straightforward equation to match the boat with the right thruster.”

“Bow thruster installation usually involves through-hull cuts, requiring tools and expertise that many DIYers may not have,” notes Weathers. “We can help in the refit to proportional. The owner sends us his motor (no need to haul the boat), we recondition it and return it with the proportional controller and other components. This upgrade also starts a new 2-year warranty on the motor. But we also recommend working with companies specializing in thruster installation.”

Within its wide range of DC, AC and hydraulic thruster options, Side-Power has also designed thrusters for different niche boats which work well for refits. The Side-Power EX series, for instance, is a pod where the motor and thruster are enclosed in an external package. “It’s ideal for boats such as catamarans or houseboats where you don’t have room for a tunnel 5 to 10 inches below the waterline,” says Weathers.

Side-Power’s SX series is a stern thruster for boats with dual outdrives where conventional stern thrusters would not work. The company also makes retractable thrusters for sailboats. Weathers says that Side-Power’s position as a market leader isn’t just because of its wide product range. “It’s because they’re so good at what they do,” he says. “They’ve grown by virtue of their quality and excellent support network worldwide, of which Imtra is a proud member.”

Side-Power has also grown with other products like its Vector Fin stabilizers. Imtra has worked with many yacht owners who have refitted their vessels with Vector Fins. The curved stabilizers have been proven to be up to 50 percent more efficient than standard fins in reducing roll at anchor, and 30 percent more effective under way.

Most owners, says Weathers, notice the difference immediately. “They see big gains in many directions,” he says.

“The curved shape directs the stabilization force more vertically than a straight fin, so it counteracts roll force more efficiently,” notes Weathers. “The curved shape also reduces the negative side effects of yaw and sway. The greater efficiency allows the Side-Power fins to be smaller than straight fins, too.” For higher speed yachts, the Vector Fins create lift. Improving overall speed and fuel efficiency compared to straight fins.

Another feature that sets the Vector Fins apart are the much smaller size of the actuators. “They take up less space and don’t intrude into the living space like others do,” says Weathers. “That’s particularly important for the refit market since actuators are often positioned in the main stateroom. Side-Powers are also virtually silent—another significant advantage over its competitors’.”

Of course, the ultimate refit is getting a thruster and stabilizer combination from Side-Power. The systems connect through S-Link and can work with other on-board systems. “Side-Power’s proportional joystick systems integrate seamlessly with modern engine joystick systems from Volvo, Xenta, Twin-Disc, ZF, Glendinning and others,” notes Weathers. “Side-Power provides a plug-and-play gateway to integrate with all major systems. That’s just another feature that shows the sophistication of their systems.” At last technology seen in larger yachts and commercial vessels is now available to all. Zero Speed stabilization, Dynamic Positioning and station holding, and precise vessel control can all be retrofitted.

For more information, go to www.imtra.com.

The post Better Boating Technology appeared first on Cruising World.

There’s no question about it: On cruising sailboats, an efficient, safe marine stove is as important as good sails, functioning systems and top-notch safety gear. The ability to prepare and enjoy home-cooked meals on board makes for a happy and healthy crew, and at the heart of it all is a reliable stove.

Many owners of pre-owned vessels have inherited the stove that came with the boat—with either happy or hair-pulling results. If you’re in the latter category, or if you wish to retire your once-reliable galley workhorse, it might be time to ponder an upgrade. There are many considerations, but one of the first things you should decide is: Which type of marine stove?

For upgrades, the three most prevalent types of marine stoves rely on liquid petroleum gas (LPG, or propane), nonpressurized alcohol and, in recent years, electric. Other types, such as kerosene and compressed natural gas (CNG) burners, have fallen out of favor for various reasons: Kerosene spills are extremely flammable, burners require priming before lighting, the fuel smells unpleasant, and the odor often permeates interior fabrics and the food itself. While some sailors still swear by it—it’s widely available and burns fairly hot—use of kerosene is waning. CNG made its appearance (along with LPG) in the 1980s, and early on was touted as the “safe gas.” Unlike LPG, it’s lighter than air and can’t settle in the bilges, though fumes can collect in other areas of the boat that aren’t well ventilated—and it still can explode. Today it’s hard to find and rarely used.

Butane, another form of liquid gas, has been used for years to fuel small, portable one- or two-burner stoves equipped with small canisters of fuel. Popular on smaller sailboats for simple cooking, and on some cruising boats as an inexpensive backup to the existing galley stove, it can be useful for preparing coffee, tea or one-pot meals without heating up the galley too much, but probably isn’t under consideration for an upgrade.

Diesel stoves are not widely considered either, but if you dislike propane and alcohol, stoves and ovens that use diesel forced-air technology, such as those made by Wallas in Finland (imported by Scan Marine), might be worth a look. Prices range from $2,500 to $5,000.

Marine Propane Stoves

On most production cruising boats built from the mid-1980s on, marine propane stoves and ovens have been the rule. When you’re considering an upgrade, they are an excellent choice, though there remain skeptics who are either unwilling to install and maintain a propane system, or are downright terrified of propane and actually switch to an alcohol system for precisely this reason. LPG is heavier than air, and fumes can settle in the bilge if proper installation, usage and safety protocols aren’t followed, creating the potential for explosion. Most who use propane aboard safely feel that the benefits outweigh the risks: It’s available worldwide, the cost is reasonable, it burns hot and cooks food quickly, it’s odorless while burning, and it’s easy and safe to use as long as you practice strict safety measures. Propane stoves and systems on U.S. boats must meet American Boat & Yacht Council standards, which outline specific parameters for safe installation and use. The West Marine Advisor also offers tips on safe installation.

Marine propane stoves have improved over the years; most newer models have built-in safety thermocouples that automatically stop the flow of gas within seconds if a flame is not present. This feature, plus other required and optional safety measures—such as a leak-detection system, a dedicated exterior tank-storage locker, a simple electric solenoid switch that allows the gas to be shut off manually and remotely, and a vapor detector—are key to safe operation, along with careful use by all aboard. On today’s new-stove market, retailers report that the Force 10 gimbaled two- and three-burner series are top sellers. For a new two- or three-burner range, you’ll need to budget between $1,000 and $2,000, depending on make and model. If you’re short on galley space but still want propane, Eno makes compact two- and three-burner built-in and gimbaled propane cooktops, which sell for $300 to $400.

Marine Alcohol Stoves

Alcohol stoves burn denatured alcohol, and over the years they’ve suffered a bad rap: Older, pressurized models achieved widespread notoriety not for their cooking ability, but for their uncanny knack for setting anything above them (sometimes including the cook) on fire. Pressurized stoves were famously difficult to light; they required pumping and priming with alcohol to get the burners hot enough for sustained cooking, which often led to flare-ups and disaster. Compounding the problem was that an alcohol flame is nearly invisible, resulting in burns from touching a burner that was invisibly lit. Fortunately for fans of this fuel, newer, nonpressurized, highly functional models of marine alcohol stoves are available to eliminate the danger as well as the priming process. The Dometic Origo system uses canisters fitted with wool “wicks” that soak up the alcohol, allowing the fumes to be lit in a controlled way that avoids flare-ups. In addition to being nonexplosive, alcohol stoves are easy to install; every component needed comes with the stove.

But while alcohol has advantages, it also has drawbacks: Like kerosene, it has an odor when the stove is in use that makes some people queasy. It burns at a much lower temperature than either kerosene or propane, using more fuel and taking longer to cook food or even boil water, but fans of alcohol stoves claim they don’t notice or mind the slightly longer cooking times. Though more expensive overall than propane, stove alcohol is widely available in the U.S.; worldwide, it’s harder to come by. Nonetheless, alcohol marine stove proponents cite not having to worry about a possible onboard explosion and ease of installation as two benefits that outweigh all the drawbacks combined. According to retailers, the Dometic Origo 6000 is today’s top-selling alcohol stove/oven, followed closely by Dometic Origo stove-top units. New ranges are priced between $1,500 and $1,800; stove-tops are in the vicinity of $200 to $350.

Electric Marine Stoves

Until recently, electric stoves and ovens were found mainly on large powerboats and superyachts and would not have been a possibility for the average sailboat. But as new boats equipped with generators as standard equipment make their way into the mainstream market, and as more owners of older boats retrofit gensets, electric marine ranges and fixed or portable ceramic cooktops are making inroads. Most U.S.-made boat stoves require 120 volts; if a boat spends much of its nonsailing time at marinas with shore power available, or if running the generator each time the stove is used isn’t a problem, it may be a viable alternative. The price range for a new two- or three-burner electric marine stove and oven is $1,500 to $2,000; for one- and two-burner electric and induction cooktops, from the simple to the sublime, the price ranges from $100 to $900.

Induction Cooking

The newest trend in electric stoves is induction cooking, which cooks food using electromagnetic induction rather than conduction from electric heat or a flame. In simplified terms, when you turn on the stove burner, a metal coil beneath a ceramic cooktop uses alternating current to produce a magnetic field. When magnetic cookware is placed on top, voilà! The pot heats up, but the cooktop remains cool. The advantages seem endless: Induction stoves drastically reduce fire and burn risk, as the cooktop itself does not heat up; they don’t warm up the boat; they cook food fast and efficiently; and because it doesn’t ever get hot, the cooktop is easy to keep clean (and can double as extra counter space). One disadvantage to most electric ceramic cooktops on boats is the lack of rails or clamps to keep pots in place. Another is that induction cooktops require use of specific cookware with magnetic properties; when you replace your existing stove with one, you might also have to replace your pots. Kenyon Marine has addressed the problem of keeping pots on the stove with its innovative new Silken2 two-burner Trimline induction cooktop; it comes with a fitted, patented nonskid silicone mat that can be used during cooking. Another popular induction cooktop is the single-burner unit by Furrion. This technology is new and still evolving. If you’re on the fence about an upgrade, keep a close eye on marine induction stoves — they just may be the wave of the future.

Before You Buy a Marine Stove

Before you start to shop, answer some basic questions: How much stove do you need? How much room do you have in your galley? Where do you plan to cruise? The stove you select depends largely on how—and how often—you use your boat. If it’s a small boat with limited galley space, used mostly for daysails, weekend cruises, and the occasional overnight not far from home waters, a simple stove-top system (nonpressurized alcohol, butane or, if you have shore power, electric or combination alcohol-electric) might suffice. If it’s a midsize boat used for extended vacation or liveaboard cruising, you’ll likely want—and have room for—a marine stove with an oven. If there are only two of you aboard, a two-burner stove and oven might suffice; if you’re a family, consider a three-burner. Measure your space carefully and, unless you want to undertake a major carpentry project, be sure you select a boat stove that fits. (If you own a European-made boat, you’ll likely need to order a metric size.) If you cruise outside the U.S., choose a marine stove that uses fuel that’s available and affordable everywhere you plan to visit.

Depending on where and how you sail, there are also some stove safety features to consider. Almost all marine stoves and ovens are gimbaled, allowing them to swing back and forth, essentially remaining level when the boat is heeled (or rolling at anchor). Your best bet will be to go for a gimbaled replacement. Other safety features should include a sturdy, built-in safety rail around the outer edge to guard against pots sliding off the stove-top; a set of pot clamps to keep pots in place while cooking underway; and a latch that allows the oven door to be securely locked in place.

Choosing and installing a new marine stove doesn’t have to mean jumping from the frying pan into the fire. If you know exactly what you want before you shop and do your research on features and installation, outfitting your sailboat with a new stove that meets your needs will be worth its weight in comfort — not to mention delicious home-cooked meals.

Lynda Morris Childress and her husband, Kostas Ghiokas, cruise and charter their Atlantic 70 ­cutter, Stressbuster, throughout the Greek Islands.

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